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  • surreyman
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-09-22
    Can anyone please help me with the correct setup using the XLR cable that was included with the guitar? I've tried using a different jack to jack cable but it sounds terrible.

    I also have a godin multiac and that sounds great with the G Natural, but I really want to use my Taylor when I gig.

    When I plug the XLR cable straight into the mixer, the sound is unbelievable but I really want to use the G Natural in between!

    Thanks.....
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    0 13,260
    • surreyman
      Laird_Williams

      surreyman wrote:

      Can anyone please help me with the correct setup using the XLR cable that was included with the guitar? I've tried using a different jack to jack cable but it sounds terrible.



      I also have a godin multiac and that sounds great with the G Natural, but I really want to use my Taylor when I gig.



      When I plug the XLR cable straight into the mixer, the sound is unbelievable but I really want to use the G Natural in between!



      Thanks.....


      I assume that this is an ES-equipped Taylor, and the cable to which you refer is a TRS-XLR cable that comes with the unit.



      You have three choices.

      1) Use a regular instrument cable and patch the guitar into the instrument input on the G-Nat. I personnally don't like the sound from this one. The ES is really MUCH happier when treated like a mic of sorts.

      2) Use a conversion transformer like this one to convert the low-Z balanced signal off the supplied cable to a hi-Z unbalanced signal that is a better match for the G-Nat's instrument input - which is designed for the Hi-Z output of a traditional guitar pickup. I have used this method with a fair amount of success.



      http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062443&cp=&sr=1&kw=balanced+transformer&origkw=balanced+transformer&parentPage=search



      3) Jack the supplied cable into the MIC input and then set the internal mic routing to be the same as the instrument routing. (You'll need to toy with the mic gain level knob and perhaps the pad button to get the levels right. You will also need to select mic input on the mic/aux input button)
      • September 22, 2008
    • surreyman
      surreyman That's a huge help - thanks!



      I'll let you know how I get on....
      • September 22, 2008
    • surreyman
      surreyman Hi again - Tried option 2 and that worked reasonably well. Struggling on option 3 and wondered if you could give a little more detailed help? I'm not sure where to go once in the menu!



      Many thanks if you can help....
      • September 23, 2008
    • surreyman
      Laird_Williams

      surreyman wrote:

      Hi again - Tried option 2 and that worked reasonably well. Struggling on option 3 and wondered if you could give a little more detailed help? I'm not sure where to go once in the menu!



      Many thanks if you can help....


      0) Put fresh batteries (or battery, depending on the ES you have) in the guitar.



      1) You need to do the following from the "Levels" Menu

      - Set "Levels->Mic-Pre" to "Guitar"



      2) On the back of the unit - you need to set the following:

      - Make sure the "Mic In Select" button is pressed IN

      - Make sure the "+48V" button is NOT pressed in.



      3) Set the Guitar's output volume to at least the detente position. (The volume knob on the ES has a little spot where the knob "sticks" if you want it there. That is the "Detente" position.



      4) Then on the back of the unit, you will need to set input gain

      a) Start with the "-20db" button NOT pressed in.

      b) Adjust the "mic level" knob until you get a good string signal that distorts a little.

      c) Then back the "mic level" knob off about 1/4 turn so the signal does not distort, even when playing your loudest.



      If you can't get the signal loud enough to distort, turn up the volume on the guitar another 1/4 turn and try step 4 again.



      If the signal is too hot (distorts) with the mic level knob most of the way down, press the "-20db" button in and try steps 4b and 4c again.
      • September 23, 2008
    • surreyman
      surreyman Thanks so much for that. I seem to have cracked it! The Taylor sounds great now - even better than the Godin! Now I just need to work on getting the best sounds out of the G-Natural..
      • September 24, 2008
  • dannyderks
    Contributor - Level 1
    2008-09-05
    I'd just like to post something positive for a change,
    I received my TCelectronic G-sharp.
    And I like to say I love it.

    Plugged it in, played with it some time, and it sounds fantastic.
    Really easy to use, although I have to say that I'm not using preset, but old fashion dual effects with the Footswitch as bypass switch.

    No collouring of the sound of my amp @ all!

    Really a great price/quality ratio!
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    • dannyderks
      Easto DD,



      I would have to say the same thing. GC just dropped the price big time.



      If you want to PM me and we can exchange presets etc. I posted looking for some but unfortunately this forum is pretty quiet.



      Easto
      • September 9, 2008
    • dannyderks
      Zorpho Yeah, I must agree. I've had mine for a few years now and it's the best multi-effects unit I've ever had and I've been playing since 1968. A lot of the multis have their own presets and usually every one of the presets has some sort of overdrive or distortion effect in it which means you've gotta go through each preset and remove it as well as re-configure the other effects that are pre-set. The G-sharp has all I need at my fingertips and if I want to get lost in a maze of pre-sets I've got the foot switch that I can use to chase them around and find the right one just in time for the end of the set.
      • April 25, 2012
    • dannyderks
      Zorpho Geeze I stuffed that pun stop bot question. It asked for the closest star to Earth and what was my dumb assed reply : Alpha Centauri

      There I was thinking I was so clever when of course it's our Sun. DOH ! I was only 4.365 light years ( 42,479,700,000,000 kilometres or 26,395,661,834,870.09 miles ) out
      • April 25, 2012
    • dannyderks
      Tele-kasper ^ I blew it too, answered David Bowie.....lol
      • February 27, 2016
    • dannyderks
      Kat24 I just ordered one online and it arrives yesterday. Started using it and it was really awesome. Never in my life am I satisfied with what I have purchase! I love my G-Sharp this let me play an awesome music!! \m/
      • February 5, 2017
  • J_ALexander
    Contributor - Level 1
    2008-08-18
    i cant get my g-major to update. i have tried using both the m-audio uno and the midisport 1x1. it either hangs or i get a download error like download error 0 or 9 or 3. i dont know what to do. i have left tc electronic 3 messages and sent 2 e-mails and havent heard a word from them. any help would be great. this unit is pretty worthless to me without the kill/dry.
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    0 9,231
    • J_ALexander
      thenine same here Bro. I get the same error with the uno. Either that or it just drops out after counting up to 23 or so. Frustrating. Not much traffic on this board I am guessing? Let me know if you work it out and I will do the same. I tried the most recent driver off m-audio's site and I tried 2 different PC's.
      • September 7, 2008
    • J_ALexander
      countlicker anyone have the solution to this?
      • November 25, 2012
    • J_ALexander
    • J_ALexander
      sglw11060138 This may be a bit of a pain but all you need to do is get a MPU-401 compatible sound card for your computer and install it. You must use win XP. You'll also need the MPU-401 cables. Both the card and the cable can be purchased for a lot less that a Midi Uno on Ebay. Once you hook up the cables to the G-Major the update software will recognize the card and you'll be able to run the update with no problem. You can also use the same setup if you want to do a midi dump and upload other peoples presets using the RealMajor editor. This is a great unit and well worth the extra $20 bucks for the card and cable. If you can't figure out how to install the sound card, let me know and I'll walk you through it.



      Oh and by the way, Tech support is excellent!



      Steve
      • January 31, 2013
    • J_ALexander
      kimo_sabi YESSSSS, I've did it.......!!!! After 2 weeks of trying, I've update the unit to 1.27. In the first 2 weeks Ive used a Midisport 1x1 with USB. I've tried it with a Toshiba Laptop with Windows XP on a USB port, and I've tried the a Desktop, running on XP with the USB port. Did everything what people suggested on any other forum and even the capacitor option, but nothing worked. What have I done. I used an old midi/game port to midi cable. one with 15-pins male connector. The one you used back in the days to connect a joystick to your computer and on the other end of the cable 2 midi in- and out cable. I took an old MPU-401 sound card and put it in the desktop. XP will find the right drivers and then did the update procedure.
      • March 3, 2013
  • timothy_tosh
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-08-18
    As stated in a separate post I am currently doing a W/D/W setup with two heads. After reading in the Manual further I notice a dual amp setup on page 27. It looks as if with this method if I chose to not do W/D/W and setup this way the G System would control which amp was on and what effects are sent.

    Can somebody confirm that if I have one head in the insert loop and one head in loop 4 that via presets I can say which loop is active thus meaning which head is active? I am not sure this is the way to go since I would lose my current stereo setup with the heads and W/D/W setup, but sure seems pretty flexible and easier overall setup possibly.
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    • timothy_tosh
      Laird_Williams

      timothy_tosh wrote:

      As stated in a separate post I am currently doing a W/D/W setup with two heads. After reading in the Manual further I notice a dual amp setup on page 27. It looks as if with this method if I chose to not do W/D/W and setup this way the G System would control which amp was on and what effects are sent.



      Can somebody confirm that if I have one head in the insert loop and one head in loop 4 that via presets I can say which loop is active thus meaning which head is active? I am not sure this is the way to go since I would lose my current stereo setup with the heads and W/D/W setup, but sure seems pretty flexible and easier overall setup possibly.


      Yes...you can also run stereo...switching between the preamps on each head so one or the other is active on a given patch, but then still make use of BOTH power amp sections and cabinets so you can run true stereo output of the FX.
      • August 18, 2008
    • timothy_tosh
      EROCK77 ok... so?? what about using the g to run dual mono, say an ada preamp and a triaxis one left one right to the g and out to a 290 to 2 cabs.. ??? been lookin and lookin but i dont see how it can be done.. loop 4 is before the insert loop so it will run into that.. laird help dude!!
      • June 12, 2012
    • timothy_tosh
      Laird_Williams

      EROCK77 wrote:

      ok... so?? what about using the g to run dual mono, say an ada preamp and a triaxis one left one right to the g and out to a 290 to 2 cabs.. ??? been lookin and lookin but i dont see how it can be done.. loop 4 is before the insert loop so it will run into that.. laird help dude!!


      That would require either

      A) The insert loop and some other loop to be parallel or

      B) return on the insert loop, with a stereo INPUT to the second DSP



      Neither of these is the case. You can't run parallel, independent preamp tones through the G.

      This has been beat to death in earlier discussions in this forum.

      You might try using the search function
      • June 12, 2012
    • timothy_tosh
      bucketbot Search for some of my posts on this as I tried both a WDW & also a similar setup to what you propose.

      I discovered that the best way to achieve this was to use a looper through the insert loop such as the Lehle D Loop which is midi controllable & enables you to switch silently and without lag between the 2 preamp sections. I found that doing it the other way using Loop 4 for the second preamp & using the G to simultaneously turn off one loop & the other on produced some unwanted affects such as momentary volume jumps etc.
      • June 12, 2012
    • timothy_tosh
      CodyCass1 I hate the way the Search function is on here now. I try to use it, but since it got updated and changed, it's a lot harder to find stuff. But I might try messing with WDW now that I've got a new amp. Id love to be able to run 2 heads in perfect stereo without having to use the power amp of my main amp to power both heads. So I get a true El34 and true 6l6 tone blended. I tried the whole Loop and Insert thing awhile back and it made my amps sound really weird. Maybe I was doing it wrong, who knows. It's been about a year.
      • June 13, 2012
  • oinker54
    Contributor - Level 1
    2008-08-16
    Hi, I'm new to rack effects and have my g-major and fcb1010 working together well, but can not get the channel switching down. When I try to set a button on the fcb as a relay switch (in learn mode) the tc just gets switched to whatever number i pressed and not to my second channel or anything. Does the midi controller have to be in a different mode than just normal running (like configure or midi function etc)??
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    • oinker54
      DaveCostelloMus Hey, there are a few other posts on this subject. The official word from both Mesa/Boogie and TC Electronic is that the TC units are incompatible for switching the external jacks on Mesa's amps. Mesa jacks required isolated ground (-3gv) and the TC units can shorten out the switching matrix. The best bet is to pick up CRX-4 from Axess electronics or either an Amp Gizmo or RJM 16 from RJM Music. Sorry for the tough break man.
      • January 15, 2009
    • oinker54
      guitarnine it can be done....i am channel switching a Mesa Mark IV with my g-major's relays.....e-mail me for details guitarnine at verizon dot net.......



      -Joe
      • February 19, 2009
    • oinker54
      iamevilhomer I had a 3 channel dual rectifier set up with a gmajor and fcb1010. The way I got it to work was to connect relay 1 on the the fcb1010 to the green channel switch and relay 2 to the red channel switch. Then when setting up the presets, relay 1 on, relay 2 off would be green channel. Relay 2 on and relay 1 off would be red channel and both relays off would be orange channel. You do have to set the relays to latched mode for it to work. Hope this helps.
      • April 10, 2009
    • oinker54
      NickMellor I use the G-Major relay to channel switch my MESA Express 5:50 2 *12 with no problems. I use a stereo to 2 * Mono 1/4 jack cable. Stereo end plugs into G-Major, Mono ends into whatever you want to switch i.e. channel, reverb, contour. Worked out of the box!
      • May 21, 2009
    • oinker54
      Laird_Williams

      DaveCostelloMusic wrote:

      Hey, there are a few other posts on this subject. The official word from both Mesa/Boogie and TC Electronic is that the TC units are incompatible for switching the external jacks on Mesa's amps. Mesa jacks required isolated ground (-3gv) and the TC units can shorten out the switching matrix. The best bet is to pick up CRX-4 from Axess electronics or either an Amp Gizmo or RJM 16 from RJM Music. Sorry for the tough break man.


      The official line from TC is that you should not use the ring of the switch connector with certain specific mesa amps. You can always use the tips on all amps - which translates into using a mono cable and getting to use only one of the two relays for each connector. Other Mesa amps, excepting the models specifically named, can use both the tip and ring of the switching connectors, and can therefore be used with any/all the relays in the G-Major/G-System by employing a TRS-Dual TS "Y" cable.



      See the following Knowledge Base article:

      http://support.tcelectronic.com/entries/20968567-channel-switching-with-newer-mesa-boogie-amps
      • May 21, 2009
  • elfredoo
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-08-07
    Hi,

    since there are many (!) threads about how to get a rig with a G-System silent, I'd like to give my input and share the knowledge I gained.

    I have two rigs which I combine with the G:

    1) G-System, Marshall JMP1, Engl 830/50 (figure 2, bottom)
    2) G-System, Mesa Roadster (figure 3, bottom)
    (The Morley is the same)

    I got both systems silent and I just have one (!) big (!!) cable to connect them both:

    figure 1: 8channel snake and jacks

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/snake.jpg

    I use the MIDI to change programs on the JMP and the switch jacks if I go with the Roadster (which by the way makes bad switching noise, but it's a problem of the Roadster, not of the G's switches).
    If you wanted to use the G R-out to go stereo on rack systems, you would of course need another (third) Ebtech channel. I use it to route my acoustic sounds (that com from the Fender VG) to the main stage PA.

    For this setup you need:

    - 8 channel snake (I got 9 metres for big stages ) (6,90 Euro per metre in Germany),
    e.g. http://www.thomann.de/gb/sommer_cable_quantum_highflex_multipair_8.htm

    - several jacks as you can see in the picture (2x) (depends on type < 50 Euro)

    - Morley Ebtech HumEliminator (66,- Euro in Germany),
    e.g. http://www.thomann.de/gb/ebtech_by_morley_hum_eliminator_2.htm

    - patience and a bit of soldering skills (always use soldering flux!!! ... serious!)


    This is (as far as I can see) the absolute easiest way to connect the G with the 4-cable method to an amp or a rack-system. I had the experience that you always have to put the Ebtech before you go into the amp (Ch1 for Amp input, Ch2 for Amp return/PA in) like:

    G. Insert send -----> balanced cable -----> EBTECH in ch 1
    EBTECH out ch 1. -----> short well shielded cable -----> Preamp/Amp input

    Preamp/Amp Send -----> balanced cable -----> G. Insert return

    G output -----> balanced cable -----> EBTECH in ch2
    EBTECH out ch2 -----> short well shielded cable -----> Preamp/Amp Return or Poweramp in

    You have to spend money but you CAN get the G quiet. I still have a bit of loss in dynamics cause I use the boost on the G. It also results in less gain in the drive channel...but the Mesa Roadster got enough.

    Hope I could help,
    Fred

    ----------------
    figure 2: G-System and JMP1 (or other preamp)
    [up: JMP1 front, middle: G rear, bottom: JMP1 rear, PA means guitar power amplifier):

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/GandJMP1.jpg



    ----------------
    figure 3: G-System and Roadster (or other amp/combo)
    [up: Roadster front, middle: G rear, bottom: Roadster rear):

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/GandRoadster.jpg





    ---------------
    figure 4: Connecting the Mesa Roadster (ch1 and ch2 on ebtech are swapped in comparison to scheme above.)

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/img_9740.jpg







    ----------------
    figure 5: Connecting the Roadster (detail), switch channel selector of roadster to "ch1" (on the right) and you don't need to switch for channel 1, because the roadster automatically does, when it doesn't get any signal. You can use the fourth relay to switch the boost or reverb of the roadster for example.

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/img_9745.jpg







    ----------------
    figure 6: 8channel snake and jacks

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/img_9750.jpg




    ***EDIT***
    OK, here's another scheme, of how to wire a setup with G-System and Roadster. Try without pedals first. If it is clean (no hum) then add pedal by pedal into the loop. If there's hum again, when adding one pedal then use another hum-eliminator between loop send and pedal in.

    ----------------
    figure 7: Wiring scheme

    better quality: http://www.2WO-quadrat.de/__extras/G-SystemAndRoadster.jpg
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    0 72,650
    • elfredoo
      proxy Hi there



      I am just wondering if you can tell me where to incorporate Rack EQ with this set up?I'd like to keep EQ at the same levels at all time.



      Your help is appreciated
      • September 22, 2008
    • elfredoo
      elfredoo why don't you lock the eq of the g?



      i would begin by setting your system up without eq and get it clean. then integrate it a) pre-gain: between G-insert-out and hum-e1 or b) post-gain: between G-out and hum-e2
      • October 7, 2008
    • elfredoo
      JayS Hi, great idea for a clean setup. I just ordered some 8-channel snake and a EH-2 but now I'm wondering how did you wire those plugs, because it seems the first input plug is mono and the rest are stereo plugs?



      Also, I found this for MIDI wiring: http://www.philrees.co.uk/midiplug.htm . Can you confirm that this is correct?
      • October 23, 2008
    • elfredoo
      Laird_Williams

      JayS wrote:

      Hi, great idea for a clean setup. I just ordered some 8-channel snake and a EH-2 but now I'm wondering how did you wire those plugs, because it seems the first input plug is mono and the rest are stereo plugs?


      Don't worry about it.

      1) The EbTech converts between balanced and unbalanced signals. You use the snake between the balanced jacks of if the G-System and the EbTech. You then use SHORT unbalanced connections between the EbTech and the amp. So on these connections, there is no issue since balanced and unbalanced connections are being converted properly.

      2) As-wired by Fred, one connection does cross between an unbalanced jack (the amp send) and a balanced jack (the g-system insert return). Since the output end of this connection (the amp send) is the unbalanced one, and the input end of the connection is balanced, this creates a "pseudo-balanced" connection - which has some of the RF-cancelling properties of a fully-balanced connection.



      Thus - in this configuration - all 3 connections between the amp and the g-system are balanced - and two of the 3 are transformer isolated. In most cases, this results in sufficient RF prevention, in even the noisiest EMI environments.



      Having said this, in rare cases - a ground loop may also be present on the amp send <---> insert return connection. If this happens, you may want to consider another EbTech so you can transformer isolate that connection as well. Doing so will also reject more RF since the connection will be truly balanced rather than pseudo-balanced. Note: most folks do NOT find this step necessary. I do it in both my home studio rig (where ALL line-level connections in the studio are balanced and transformer isolated - a HARD, fast rule in my home studio) and in my portable rig - where I have mounted two EbTech boxes onto my amp and wired them up semi-permanently.
      • October 23, 2008
    • elfredoo
      elfredoo hi, i wired up like in the picture (one is mono, you're right)...

      the midi template is correct.



      it works great for me. let me know, if yours does too.
      • October 26, 2008
  • Uffe_tc
    Contributor - Level 1
    2008-07-21
    Until July 2008 a number of Nova Systems sold were manufactured with inconsistent chipsets. This caused affected units to freeze during startup or shortly thereafter, rendering the affected units completely unusable. All units manufactured after July 2008 shipped with chipsets working according to factory specs and are thusly not affected.

    Should your Nova System be freezing after several years of usage (or even hours of usage) it is not affected by the issue describe above, regardless of which serial number it has, and we recommend you contact your nearest authorized TC Electronic service center to have your Nova System repaired.

    (Admin: updated February 4 2013)
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    0 146,650
    • Uffe_tc
      drop2 This is nuts.. the pwer chord is the only way to shut off or turn on... and then the system shuts off if moved while stepping on foot switches
      • October 7, 2008
    • Uffe_tc
      mcsdude So a few times I boot my nova system up and it seems to freeze- I gotta unplug it and try again - sometimes 2 or 3 times. Beyond that everything seems to be working fairly hassle free.



      Does this mean I have the bad chipset? I bought mine at samash. When will I / you and they know that what they have in stock is the good chipset so i can swap it out?
      • October 13, 2008
    • Uffe_tc
      davidp158 Sorry to hear about the chip set issue and the frustrated customers and stress of setting things right. Chips happen, I guess, but I don't want to be one of those frustrated customers.



      If I were to purchase a Nova System, is there a way to confirm a unit does not have the potentially bad chips? Is there a manufacturing date, or serial number range that is considered reliable? I've spoken to 3 dealers and they all claim they've never heard of the problem (yeah, right). For the cost of this unit, I'd like some assurance that I can get a reliable Nova System. FWIW, my Nova Delay has performed like a champ!



      cheers,

      Dave
      • January 11, 2009
    • Uffe_tc
      tdavilio I just ordered the other day, will my new unit be ok? I should have it tomorrow.



      Tony
      • January 15, 2009
    • Uffe_tc
      ogeva Hello TC, I hope you will respond here.

      I am going to get a Nova system, but I am going to get it in the USA even though I live in Israel, since there is a big price difference between getting it here and there.

      Can I count on it that I get a unit with a new board? It has been over a year since you posted about this.

      I case I have a faulty unit, I will not be able to contact my reseller anymore, since I'll be in the other side of the world by then.

      How do I get the unit serviced in this case?

      Thanks,

      Oren
      • May 3, 2009
  • jwoertz
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-07-21
    Hello-

    Is there any way to turn off the tap tempo light on the Nova System? This is very distracting in church, and when the lights dim it's really bad. It is also distracting to me when I am trying to use the unit. It may force me to go with something else.

    Thanks-Jeff
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    0 9,492
    • jwoertz
      StevieC I haven't found any reference to being able to change this. I'm not sure what your setup looks like, but when I play for worship I have a small pedal board that travels in a soft-sided zip up bag. When I play, I leave the pedal board attached to the bag (it has velcro strips for keeping it secure during travel), and simply lift the "top" of the bag up mid-way. It ends up acting like a shield of sorts and hides all the pedals and blinking lights that would be distracting - at least from the congregation.
      • July 21, 2008
    • jwoertz
      Pheasant I found the same annoying problem! Why would you use it?



      I Emailed TC Electronic soon after buying the unit - their answer was that you can't turn it off. Apart from this, I find the Nova System a good piece of kit.
      • July 21, 2008
    • jwoertz
      loopz You can turn it off by going into the utility menu and select 'defeat led' and put the parameter on 'on' ---



      Answer to the same question on this forum:

      Sure, you can turn the Tap Tempo LED off by going into the Utility menu and scrolling down to the parameter called Tap LED Defeat (
      • August 26, 2014
    • jwoertz
      Bmoney

      Pheasant wrote:

      I found the same annoying problem! Why would you use it?



      I Emailed TC Electronic soon after buying the unit - their answer was that you can't turn it off. Apart from this, I find the Nova System a good piece of kit.




      I find the blinking tempo light to be very useful actually, especially when tapping the tempo live to match sync with the drummer. Unfortunately, a bug in the latest software version make tap tempo difficult to use.
      • August 26, 2014
    • jwoertz
      headstack

      B money wrote:



      Pheasant wrote:

      I found the same annoying problem! Why would you use it?



      I Emailed TC Electronic soon after buying the unit - their answer was that you can't turn it off. Apart from this, I find the Nova System a good piece of kit.




      I find the blinking tempo light to be very useful actually, especially when tapping the tempo live to match sync with the drummer. Unfortunately, a bug in the latest software version make tap tempo difficult to use.


      B money,

      What happens when you use the tap tempo switch now, and what ver. firmware are you updated to?

      Thanks
      • September 4, 2014
  • wsot
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-06-24
    I have acquired a new VOX AC30 CCH and it is a beaut of an amp, however the two channels, normal and Top Boost are completely separate and there is no way to switch between them on the amp I can see - you have to unplug one and plug into the other.

    I have been using the top boost channel using the 4 cable method with the effects loop and it sounds wonderful, but this got me thinking. Does anyone have a view as to how I can use the G to switch between the channels? I realise I would have to have cables into both the VOX's inputs permanently and then switch the output from the G if this is possible.

    What do you think? Or is there some other way I haven't thought of?

    Thanks guys.
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    0 7,841
    • wsot
      Laird_Williams

      wsot wrote:

      I have acquired a new VOX AC30 CCH and it is a beaut of an amp, however the two channels, normal and Top Boost are completely separate and there is no way to switch between them on the amp I can see - you have to unplug one and plug into the other.



      I have been using the top boost channel using the 4 cable method with the effects loop and it sounds wonderful, but this got me thinking. Does anyone have a view as to how I can use the G to switch between the channels? I realise I would have to have cables into both the VOX's inputs permanently and then switch the output from the G if this is possible.



      What do you think? Or is there some other way I haven't thought of?



      Thanks guys.


      You could try an A/B switch that has a midi or relay control input that the G could then switch for you. Wiring would be:



      Insert Send --> A/B Switch In

      A/B Switch OutputA --> Amp Channel 1 In

      A/B Switch OutputB --> Amp Channel 2 In



      If you have loops 3 and 4 free, you could also try the following:

      GSys Loop 3 Send --> Amp Channel 1 In

      GSys Loop 4 Send --> Amp Channel 2 In

      Amp FX Send --> GSys Insert Return



      Set the insert LOOP ON and the insert LOCK ON and then, when you want to use amp channel 1 engage loop 3 and bypass loop 4, when you want to use channel 2, bypass loop 3 and engage loop 4. Might work - give it a shot.
      • June 24, 2008
    • wsot
      wsot Wow. Thanks Laird, I will certainly try!
      • June 24, 2008
    • wsot
      toreriksolem Did you have any luck with this?



      If you have loops 3 and 4 free, you could also try the following:

      GSys Loop 3 Send --> Amp Channel 1 In

      GSys Loop 4 Send --> Amp Channel 2 In

      Amp FX Send --> GSys Insert Return

      Set the insert LOOP ON and the insert LOCK ON and then, when you want to use amp channel 1 engage loop 3 and bypass loop 4, when you want to use channel 2, bypass loop 3 and engage loop 4. Might work - give it a shot.



      I found I had sound out of both 3 and 4 when I just wanted one of them. Seems all sends are on at all times?
      • August 15, 2012
    • wsot
      finnchen666 I might be completely wring but ain't it possible to solve this by programming panned presets and using both (L and R) outputs of the G?
      • August 30, 2012
    • wsot
      Laird_Williams

      [email protected] wrote:

      Did you have any luck with this?



      If you have loops 3 and 4 free, you could also try the following:

      GSys Loop 3 Send --> Amp Channel 1 In

      GSys Loop 4 Send --> Amp Channel 2 In

      Amp FX Send --> GSys Insert Return

      Set the insert LOOP ON and the insert LOCK ON and then, when you want to use amp channel 1 engage loop 3 and bypass loop 4, when you want to use channel 2, bypass loop 3 and engage loop 4. Might work - give it a shot.



      I found I had sound out of both 3 and 4 when I just wanted one of them. Seems all sends are on at all times?


      Yes - the G-System loop sends are on at all times
      • August 30, 2012
  • duckman
    Contributor - Level 2
    2008-05-28
    hi There,

    my name is Arjan and I just bought a Nova system yesterday. Took it the same evening to band rehearsal and it is a great unit!
    I bought it to replace some pedals ( Line 6 Echopark, MXR phase 90,volume pedal,Boss pedal tuner) and to have a pitch shifter/octave and chorus.

    I connected it yesterday like this:
    Gibson flying V>Dunlop 95Q>Carl Martin plexitone>Boss EQ7>TC Nova system>Marshall 6100>1960AV
    Tried my JCM800 2203 too, but the 6100 has a better clean.
    for some songs I need a heavier distortion, but I didn't had the time to mount that on my pedal board yet.

    first impressions:
    - effects quality is great, but the drive is not heavy enough for my band.( I knew this)
    - tuner is fantastic!
    - I notice no signal loss
    - programming requires learning curve, but it's not to complicated.

    I also have a question.
    Right now I have a Roland EV-5 expression pedal, but this doesn't work well. I get a minimum of 70 and a max 0f 75 value as I calibrate.
    Before I go out and spend money on a new expression pedal, any idea why this is happening?
    And if you can recommend a good expression pedal, please let me know.

    Thanks,
    Arjan
    (sorry for the long post, but I wanted to share my thoughts with you)
    read more...
    0 4,937
    • duckman
      harrysnapperorg Sorry I can't help with your EV-5 but I can recommend the Ernie Ball and EBjr pedals. The 250K versions work the best, but the 25K ones work too.



      I'm using a Yamaha CV-7 which is just awful - I need to get something better!
      • June 3, 2008
    • duckman
      duckman thanks for your reply.



      My mysterious problem is solved after I did a second firmware upgrade.

      The device has some bugs, but this is solved



      I was thinking of getting the Ernie ball too...
      • June 3, 2008
    • duckman
      pchadwic FYI: I grabbed an M-Audio EX-P Expression pedal for $30.00 (planning on getting the TC exp pedal in a few months so I wanted the cheapest functional pedal.)



      The M-Audio works perfectly after calibration. I'm using it to control phaser speed and delay mix. It is plastic obviously and has an integral cable (can't be replaced) but for the price it will do the job.
      • June 22, 2008
    • duckman
      tjborek Resurrecting an ancient post. Question for pchadwic:



      I too have the M-Audio EX-P (brand new) with a v.1.13 Nova System. Although the pedal calibration works perfectly for Whammy pitch shifting in one preset, it's causing presets where it's mapped to Drive Level go jump to full volume with howling feedback and everything. Unacceptable!



      Are you doing anything with the rotary knob on the side of the pedal? Is your switch on the bottom set to M-Audio or Other? Mine is M-Audio.
      • July 25, 2017
    • duckman
      Bmoney another expression pedal question: I read somewhere that there is a bug in the latest firmware that prohibits an expression pedal from being assigned different parameters per preset, ex: Volume in preset 1, and Pitch in preset 2.

      Is this correct? Has anyone experienced this problem or does it really work like it's supposed to? (Different parameters can be assigned to the expression pedal per preset)
      • July 25, 2017
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