284,888 members
166,740 posts
  • jakster
    Contributor - Level 2
    I have a new G-System I've been familiarizing myself with and enjoying until this morning, when I attempted to upgrade the firmware in my unit from 2.0 to 3.0 so as to be able to edit presets from my Mac using the Vyzor software.

    I downloaded the upgrade software, connected the G-System to the Mac with the USB cable, and initiated the upgrade process. At the end of the upgrade process, the computer displayed a message that the upgrade had failed and that I should try again. The G-System was displaying a message indicating "firmware burning" so I didn't bother it. However, after several hours this message was still displayed, so I repowered the G-System. The G-System is now dead--the display panel on the floorboard lights up, but no message is displayed--and the upgrade utility does cannot detect the G-System when connected via USB. I've tried repowering several times, disconnecting/reconnecting cables, Cat5 connections, etc., but to no avail.

    I'm coming to the conclusion that I'll need to have the unit serviced, but thought I'd check in here first to ascertain if anyone (Laird?) might have other suggestions before I pack up the system and ship it off to the service center in Canada.

    Thanks for your help and perspective.
    0 5,288
    • jakster
      2SloMoe You could try resetting the unit?

      Power up the unit while pressing and hold the "Filter and Comp"buttons.

      The unit starts counting down. Wait for it. When it is done it will restart it self back to the main page.

      I believe this resets EVERYTHING
      • June 14, 2009
    • jakster
      jakster Thanks. Tried this several times and get the following message:

      AVR Boot v1.01


      Doesn't seem to count down, even when I hold the Filter and Comp buttons for a minute or so during and after power up.

      Any other ideas?
      • June 14, 2009
    • jakster
      jakster Correction, the message on the unit display was:

      AVR Boot v1.01


      Can't detect unit on Mac with USB
      • June 14, 2009
    • jakster
      ratkent I didn't have your specific problem, but I did have a problem with the USB connection between my iMac and my G System. I was using the USB port on the keyboard and was getting all kinds of weird responses and error messages. I then used one of the USB ports on the back of the computer and everything worked fine. Don't know if this will help or if it even applies to your situation but I really feel your pain and I'm just trying to help.

      Good luck.
      • June 15, 2009
    • jakster
      jakster Thanks. I'm using a MacBook Air, so there's only one USB port to try. I guess I could try the MacBook Pro, but I'm not sure that is going to do anything different.
      • June 15, 2009
  • bkrumme
    Contributor - Level 2
    Hey guys. I've got a question for those of you who have your G-System mounted in a custom case or on a pedalboard.

    How do you guys have the G attached to your board? Screws? Velcro? And if you're using screws, does anyone have the measurements or a template for drilling holes?
    0 4,889
    • bkrumme
      briane I used screws. I did not have a template so I used a piece of cardboard, taped it to the bottom of the G, Cut it to size, and poked through the cardboard where the screw holes are. Worked well for me.
      • June 12, 2009
    • bkrumme
      trsu2 I got a road case but it was a little too deep so I had to put a piece of wood (bout 1/2 inch thick) inside. I got some threaded metric screws and screwed them into the underside of the GS with these little ferrules (which look a little like a car wheel without the tire on it) attached. I then got these special clips from some auto parts website and screwed them to the wood. These clips enabled me to lock the GS to the board by sliding the clip in. I can also take the GS off by sliding the clip out. I got the info from another GS owner on The Gear Page. It's worked out really well except the wood makes the case heavier.
      • June 13, 2009
    • bkrumme

      [email protected] wrote:

      I used screws. I did not have a template so I used a piece of cardboard, taped it to the bottom of the G, Cut it to size, and poked through the cardboard where the screw holes are. Worked well for me.

      Have often thought that TC should include a template in the box along with the stickers to make this job easier.
      • June 5, 2012
    • bkrumme
      utterlyguitarde I made a video about just that...

      Rock on,

      • June 6, 2012
  • avoelp
    Contributor - Level 2
    After some frustrating experience in trying to get a volume and an expression pedal to work smoothly with the G, and after some partly misleading advice from TC's support ( I did some experimenting.

    For my testing I used an Ernie Ball VP Jr EB-6180 pedal that has a 250k pot and an EB-6181 that has a 25k pot. Both pedals are mono, and both have standard mono input and output jacks. I connected these pedals to the pedal jacks of the G's control board using either mono cables connected to the pedal's output jack or y-split cables connected to their input and output. I use the pedal hooked to the G's Volume jack for controlling the unit's global output volume and the one connected to the Expression jack for controlling different parameters depending on the current preset.

    This is what I found out:

    - In the G's "digital" world, where both pedals reside, there is nothing like a continuous parameter change. Everything happens in discrete steps. The question is how many steps there are, and if they are audible as steps (which is clearly unwanted).

    - According to the G's manual mono pedals should be connected using only one cable attached to the output connector. When I did this using the 25k pedal (which TC's support recommended to me) and perform the pedal calibration this gave me a range from 0 to 10, i.e., only 11 discrete volume or expression steps. When you want to control a volume parameter this is completely useless as every increase or decrease is clearly audible as a step. Thus the "recommended" procedure had the worst result.

    - Connecting the same 25k pedal with a y-split cable gave me a calibration range from 0 to 44 and a much "smoother" pedal action.

    - Using the 250k pedal with only one cable gave me a calibration range from 0 to about 60.

    - Finally, using the 250k pedal with a y-split cable resulted in a calibration range from 0 to 95, that means 96 discrete volume or expression steps.

    - Using the 250k pedal + y-cable setup for controlling output volume still does *not* give you "seamless" volume swells (and there is always some lag), but it is useful as a master volume control and it is the best that I could get out of the pedals for controlling output volume. For swells it might be preferable to use the pedal connected to the Expression jack for controlling the volume parameter of one of the effects (e.g., the output volume of the compressor if the swell is intended to occur before the preamp).

    - From my subjective listening experience I found the limited number of steps much more annoying in case of the output volume parameter than in case of expression parameters (e.g., in wha-wha effects). I also had the impression that there is considerably less lag in the G's response to the pedal connected to the Expression jack.

    - The manual talks about volume and expression pedals. I think that this is somewhat misleading. Instead we should talk about low and high impedance pedals and about linear and non-linear response curves (as a matter of fact you can use the pedals connected to both jacks for modifying any parameter in the G's Modifyer setup). Selecting pedal type as Volume or Expression in the G's pedal menue affects the unit's response curve, but has nothing to do with the type of pedal that you actually connect (just trust your ears!). BTW: A very useful feature of the EB-6180 250k pedal is that it has a taper swich which modifies the shape of the response curve.

    - The G does not have any setup parameter (beyond the pedal type parameter) for "fine tuning" the response curve of the global output volume parameter. You can nevertheless achieve this by "cheating" the calibration (i.e., by using minimum or maximum values other than those with the pedal in the toe or in the heel position).

    That's about all that I found out. From my testing I would recommend using high impedance pedals connected with y-split cables for both jacks of the G.
    0 38,964
    • avoelp
      LorenzG Hi,

      Thanks for your review! What is the disadvantage of Low-Impendance Pedals? e.g. with the Boss Pedals: a 500-H or a 500-L

      Thank you!

      • June 26, 2009
    • avoelp

      avoelp wrote:

      That's about all that I found out. From my testing I would recommend using high impedance pedals connected with y-split cables for both jacks of the G.

      There are 4 jacks - and there is some evidence that the wiring/setup needs for the Foot Controller jacks is different than that for the GFX-01 jacks. Did you look into this at all?
      • June 26, 2009
    • avoelp
      elvis avoelp: Valuable information - thanks! Interfacing pedals with the G seems to be one of the most difficult things to do.

      I disagree with one point, though. I don't think that the numbers displayed during calibration are the number of discrete steps. That is unlikely, both because the ADC that measures the travel of the pedal is most likely 8-12 bits (256 to 4096 steps) at the minimum, as well as the fact that 11 discrete steps would be VERY noticeable. My expression pedal calibrates as 0-10, and it does not sound at all quantized.

      I would guess (pending Tore's confirmation) that the number displayed is probably arbitrary, maybe an indicator of % of total possible calibration range or something like that. In that case, the number of discrete steps is likely in excess of 30, and may be as much as 400 or more, for a max calibration level of 10 (assuming 100=100% of total steps).

      The most difficult thing for the Gsystem to handle would be a logarithmic pot (almost all of them are). Assuming a volume taper (log base 10) that is linear in dB over the travel, and has 100dB range, the halfway point would be -50dB, or 1/316 of maximum. The bottom half of the pedal travel is only 0.3% of the available ADC codes. That would give 0 codes in the bottom half or travel for 8 bits, and 3 codes with 10 bits, even with a max calibration value of 100. This suggests that the ADC may be closer to 16 bits (65536 total codes), as most people seem to get reasonable response with log pots. This is reasonable, as many inexpensive microcontrollers have built-in 16 bit converters.

      To keep this stuff in one place, there was a thread about connecting pedals a while back (avoelp helped on that one, too):
      • June 29, 2009
    • avoelp
      LorenzG Did you try your Boss 500H with a usual Stereo Cable as explained here:
      • July 1, 2009
    • avoelp
      raphael I use two Boss FV500H with balanced/TRS cables. The G-system detected 50 steps (0 to 50) during calibration. It works fine, I have no complaints. Even the octave whammy seems plenty smooth to my ear.
      • July 2, 2009
  • tore
    Contributor - Level 2
    This thread is for sharing all your cool Nova System patches.
    0 346,112
    • tore
      yossarian Big Ups, TobiasDM for putting together a spreadsheet to track these things in!

      TobiasDM wrote:

      I made a spreadsheet on Google Docs, so we can share presets/patches...

      I took the liberty to use graag49's patches as example of how to post your stuff.

      Please follow some simple groundrules, so the spreadsheet don't get messy. They are in the sheet.

      To view but not edit the spreadsheet, check it out here:

      If you want to be able to edit the spreadsheet, you need to contact TobiasDM. He's posted further down in this thread.
      • June 3, 2009
    • tore

      graag49 wrote:

      I've been building patches & learning the ins/outs of my NV, so just thought I'd throw

      some settings out for you to try. Here's a "platform" patch that would make a nice loop or background rhythm fill:

      MOD...Tremolo Speed: 5.62 HZ Tempo:1/8 T Depth: 99%

      Type: Hard Width: 39% Hi Cut: 15.8 k


      DELAY (Tape): 547 Tempo: 1/4 Clip: 0 db

      Feedback: 28% Hi Cut: 12.6 k Lo Cut: 50.1

      Mix: 31%


      PITCH (Octave) Direction: Down Range: 1 oct Mix: 20%


      DRIVE (Distortion) Gain: 12 Tone: 40%

      Level: 10 db Boost: 7 db


      Those 4 footswitches are the only ones engaged, so it's truly a matter of personal taste how you can add and/or subtract from this basic patch. I'm just having lots of fun experimenting, so there you go.
      • June 3, 2009
    • tore

      Joe20 wrote:

      "Wicked Game" as it sounds pretty much like the guitar used in this song:



      Decay- 8.0s

      PreDl- 100ms

      Mix- 70%

      Size- Huge

      Color- Clear

      Hi Fac- 0

      LoCol- Tight

      LoFac- 9

      RoomL- 0

      RevLe- (-6)

      Diff- 0

      Shape- Round



      Speed- 0.841hz

      Tempo- Disable



      I wrote:

      And this is in a couple of other topics, but here's a Leslie simulation using the chorus:

      Advanced Chorus

      Speed: 5.15 Hz

      Depth: 5%

      HiCut: 10.0kHz

      Cho DL: 50.0ms

      Ratio: Off

      PhaRev: On (stereo only)

      (this is for the g system, so one or two of those parameters don't apply)

      It sounds pretty good. I have the mix fairly low so that the effect isn't too overpowering.
      • June 3, 2009
    • tore

      Jawa wrote:

      For anyone out there who is not familiar with EQ frequencies I am posting some links that you may find useful: … tml#guitar

      laird wrote:

      Programming a parametric EQ takes LOTS of experimentation. That said, you can start with the following ranges.


      Center Frequency: 100 hz - 200 hz (I'd start about 150hz or so)

      Width: about 1/2 - 1 octave


      Center Frequency: 5khz - 10khz (I'd start about 7khz)

      Width: about 2 octaves


      Center Frequency: Anywhere from 250hz to 2.5khz, depending on the sound you want.

      Width: 1-2 octaves

      Running a narrow treble with a high center frequency can turn the treble into a "sizzle" control, which can be VERY cool.
      • June 3, 2009
    • tore

      I wrote:

      I love the factory tap tremolo preset. Try playing around with it picking for each swell of the tremolo. Use an open string for a base drone and then pick out a melody / rhythm over that. Really cool effect. Sounds a bit like a synth because of the unnatural attack and decay of the note. Plus a ringing bass drone gets articulated in individual notes.

      To add to that, give it a little overdrive to break up the tone a little bit. Then add a delay set to dotted 1/4. This will give the delay an offset from the tremolo effect. Then play a riff that times up with the tremolo, it ends up getting copied by the delay but offset after the next note in the riff.

      I think those are all the patches that everyone has posted across the forum so far. Please add yours if I missed it.
      • June 3, 2009
  • cblues93
    Contributor - Level 2
    Hy guys of the forum !!
    Is there any chance of channels switching on Mesa F50, using G-System?
    many thanks
    0 3,480
    • cblues93
      elvis See my reply at the end of this post:

      I switch my F-50, and it works very well. I set up my patches so that they are either Ch1 or Ch2, and I set up the loop3 switch to give CH2 + Contour. That works as my lead crunch. I can then add boost if I want as well.
      • June 1, 2009
    • cblues93
      Crispy I have the F-100 and rather than butcher up the footswitch which will effect resale value I had this cable made.

      It's for the Rectoverb but the setup is the same as the F Series.

      The 5 pin DIN connects to the footswitch input on the amp and the TRS into the footswitch connector on the back of the G System.

      You then set the relays on the G so that each preset can be clean, gain or contour.

      Works a treat too.
      • June 2, 2009
    • cblues93
      harryg Thank you so much Crispy for posting this.

      I just bought G system and my amp is Mesa F50. I didn't know what to do until I saw this post for channel switching on the amp.

      I cut the original midi cable from Mesa Boogie and then solder those 3 to the stereo jack. The only thing is that every Midi cable have different color, so I just checked it with a multi-meter and I found them.

      I saw lots of people found it difficult to use G system. Having experience using POD X3 Live, makes G system easy to use for me.

      2 days after I bought it I used it for band rehearsal and I loved it. I am gigging with it this weekend and I can't wait.

      Thanks again.
      • April 27, 2013
  • rodgersg
    Contributor - Level 2
    Bought an "open box" G-Natural from American Musical. I think it's defective.

    The product was "open box" as stated. It's obviously been used and returned.

    There are NO "Factory" settings in the banks. Using bank up/down, only cycles through U0-U9. There are NO F0-F9 settings that I can see.

    Am I missing something or does this go right back in the box and back to AM?

    User bank U0 is programmed, and nothing else is.

    Is there a power on sequence to return the unit to completely factory settings?

    When i got it, it was at firmware 1.03. I reloaded 1.03 and still no change.


    0 16,544
    • rodgersg
      Laird_Williams 1) The "Factory Bank Lock" is probably turned on. When the factory bank lock is on, the factory patches are not visible. See page 19 of the manual for how to turn it off. If your open box unit did not have a manual, you can download it here:

      2) The user banks only become visible when they have patches saved to them. If you can't see most of the user banks, it is because they are empty. As you create patches and save them to the user banks, they will become visible.
      • May 20, 2009
    • rodgersg
      rodgersg Thank you - that was it.

      Also found my "factory reset" in the menu as well.

      Now I'm happier, but I'd sure like to know how to stop the crazy little blinking light on the front!
      • May 20, 2009
    • rodgersg

      rodgersg wrote:

      Thank you - that was it.

      Also found my "factory reset" in the menu as well.

      Now I'm happier, but I'd sure like to know how to stop the crazy little blinking light on the front!

      Can't - that's a visual for your current tempo for the tempo-based fx.
      • May 20, 2009
    • rodgersg
      wu_10 Hey there-

      Laird, can't you set it up as the primary being boost and not tap tempo? If so it's a steady versus blinking light....
      • May 20, 2009
    • rodgersg

      wu_10 wrote:

      Hey there-

      Laird, can't you set it up as the primary being boost and not tap tempo? If so it's a steady versus blinking light....

      Yeah - I think so. It has been a while. Is it flickering on you when you use it for a boost?
      • May 21, 2009
  • Krakmann
    Contributor - Level 1

    Greetings from Madrid, Spain. I've just bought a RH450 + RC212 + pedalboard. So far, I really love the sounds it makes.

    I have two features requests, in case someone considers them interesting:

    1) Although the pedalboard display is very clear, it would be helpful (if you don't own it or don't have it plugged) for the "sharp" symbol to be in the lower part of the head display. When looked from above, it's very easy to miss it.

    2) I'd love to be able to send the RCA aux signal to the cabinet, so I can play to a drum machine or iPod without using headphones. Would it be possible with a soft upgrade, or is it physically impossible?
    0 9,917
    • Krakmann
      BASSically I have to say, I'm with Krakmann and his number 2 request.
      • July 5, 2009
    • Krakmann
      mcnach Same here. I was very disappointed when I found I couldn't hear my drum machine through the speakers, as I thought this amp would replace my practice amp + gigging amp set up, as one amp would do it all.
      • July 26, 2009
    • Krakmann
      peterhfi Hi everybody,

      I agree with the feature request of sending aux in signals (drum machine, etc.) to the headphone output and to the speakers as well.

      Another feature request would be to have other surface options for the speaker cabinets due to the fact of scratches, small damages, etc. which can occur very easily (as already mentioned here, in the Talkbass forum and different reviews).

      Besides that thanks a lot for a great bass system with innovative and creative features.

      • July 27, 2009
    • Krakmann
      mcnach Regarding the ability to get the aux input signal through the speakers, I suppose what one can do is use a simple little mixer. Use the mixer to mix the preamp-out signal and the drum machine, mp3 player etc, and take the output of the mixer back to the power amp in.

      That should work, right?

      The question is only, which mixer?
      • August 2, 2009
    • Krakmann
      BASSically Waiting for the answer

      • August 15, 2009
  • ecksha
    Contributor - Level 2
    I just received my new RH450 with RC4 and unpacked. When I plugged in the RC4, a "E_" appeared in the RC4 display and nothing else worked. The amp works normally and the present, mute work fine from the front of the amp. I have tested the cable with a volt meter and it seems to work. Anyone know of a way to reset the settings to factory fresh? The amp/ftswitch was purchased new and was still bagged/sealed when I opened the boxes. Could this be warranty work already, only after 2 hours???? Not amused!!!!

    0 3,234
    • ecksha
      rune Answered you through our support system a while back. I'll close this thread for now.
      • May 19, 2009
  • abfav
    Contributor - Level 1
    I love the sounds of this pedal. I absolutely hate the design flaws. It totally ruins this pedal.

    First, I have my presets all set for preset tempo, not global tempo, I made sure. But if I tap a new time, that new time is saved automatically to my preset, even if I didn’t store the preset with that new time; it just does it on its own. When I switch to yet a different preset, it has this NEW time overwritten on that preset. What is the point of a preset if it changes like that? A preset, by definition, should be pre----set so it recalls what you have saved. What a terrible design flaw. Someone should be fired for that.

    Second, how can I tell what my settings are? As soon as I move any of the knobs even a miniscule bit they jump numbers so I have no idea what setting I have. How can you tweak it if you don't know your starting point? What a terrible design flaw. Again, someone should be fired for that.

    Third, even the manual says if you go from a manual setting to a preset, your preset won't have the same settings. THEN ITS NOT A PRESET YOU FREAKIN ENGINEERS! What is the point of a preset if it doesn’t recall the settings???? And then when I am in preset mode and I switch back to manual, does it have my last manual settings? Of course not, that would be……logical.

    Any advice. This pedal sounds great and is totally unusable.
    0 13,207
    • abfav
      tore Hi abfav,

      First of all, I'm glad you like the sound of the pedal. Regarding your other problems with nova Delay, let's go over them one by one:

      1. Preset and Global Tempo

      If you have all your presets set to preset tempo, they should recall the stored value when switch to a new preset. So if that's not the case, then it sounds as if some of your presets are not set to preset tempo after all.

      The same goes for tap tempo, while you can still change the tempo of preset using the tap tempo switch, it should revert to the original stored value when you return to the preset.

      There's an easy way of checking whether preset tempo is on or off for a given preset: If the Preset button LED is blinking (slowly) then preset tempo is on. To toggle between preset and global tempo, press and hold the Delay Type button for approx. 2 seconds. Also, please be aware that changing from for example global to preset tempo is part of that preset... meaning you have to store your preset for the change to preset tempo to be saved.

      2. Settings

      I agree that it would have been nice to have a preset indicator for Nova Delay, but in that respect Nova Delay is no better or worse than any other delay pedal with presets on the market. But if you're afraid of messing up your presets, please be aware, that you can always recall the original preset, by going to another preset and back again. Also, when tweaking existing presets, please be aware that only the pots that are actually tweaked are changed. The other ones still retain the preset values even though the pots are not in the stored position.

      3. Manual vs. Feedback

      It is not entirely correct that Nova Delay doesn't recall presets. Nova Delay does indeed have "real" presets that are recalled when you access them. What the manual says is that if you switch from for example the manual setting to a preset, then the position of the potmeters might not be the same as what is stored in the preset. I assure you that the settings you've programmed in the preset are recalled exactly like you've stored them.

      The manual setting however is different. The reason why the manual setting is not stored, is because the manual setting is NOT a preset. Unlike the presets the manual setting reflects whatever the pots are set to, something that a lot of pedal users prefer. The delay type and subdivision are stored, though.

      I hope this answers your questions and makes Nova Delay a little more usable to you.

      Best regards,

      Tore Mogensen

      Product Manager - Guitar

      TC Electronic
      • May 8, 2009
    • abfav
      JamesRPowellIII I too have been experiencing this. I prefer use of presets. It was working fine. I went to use it it was not remembering presets. Some of them are working. I have disabled spillover. I checked manual. I can't find a reason why it keeps on misbehaving. I love the display, but dislike the frustrating presets not saving.
      • July 27, 2012
    • abfav
      JamesRPowellIII Is there a more complete manual? How can you check or reset the memory. Wish there was a midi or usb.
      • July 27, 2012
    • abfav
      JamesRPowellIII I was frustrated with mine, then I remembered the global setting. You have to hold the type button for 1 seconf. The preset led will blink. Then you can get the presets, to properly recall the delay times stored. It wasn't as clear as it should be in the manual.

      Now I am happy.
      • July 30, 2012
    • abfav
      davecoopernz Hey! this has happened to me, turned on after no use for a couple of months over summer and the tap tempo light flashing hard core, whats wrong. im a pretty advanced user so tried most things
      • March 24, 2013
  • BASSically
    Contributor - Level 2
    Well I actually ordered one yesterday. The Rebel Head 450.
    Delivery is expected Wed or Thurs. of this week.
    It is not cheap here in Canada.
    It will be interesting to see just how it holds up to the weekend warrior use it is about to be thrust into.
    0 43,309
    • BASSically
      BASSically BASSically speaking....

      The Rebel Head 450 arrived about a week ago.

      Quite a nice (SMALL) package, along with a single dual 10 cabinet.

      Tried this combo out practicing on some tunes I needed to brush up on. Wow!! would be an understatement. I dialed in but did not refine the presets.. To date they are still not dialed right in. I have moved some of the EQ's but they will be dialed in gradually from here on. They will also help dial in the speaker cab You use. Is a great feature.

      The next thing I did was use the amp with each individual speaker cab I own.

      The cabinets do make a big difference in the sound.

      What I have settled on cabinet wise in the TC dual 10 along with my Aguilar dual 12 cab..

      This setup gives a nice round bottom end and nice mid / high definition.. It really does sound awesome..

      I have had one full band practice with this combo and have received thumbs up from the other guys in the band. They just can not believe that such a small package delivers such a huge sound.

      So my weekend warrior rig will consist of the RH450, RS 2x10 & Aguilar 2x12.

      I will carry a standby head just in case but hey that should be a common practice. I just wish it was another RH450 not the 45lb. boat anchor.

      I have used a lot of different gear over my 42 years of playing and find the RH450 very easy to set up & tot around too.

      I guess between now and October I'll get a real good Idea of just how well the little monster is going to stand up as it will be on the road quit a bit over the next 5 months..

      I also broke down and ordered the foot switch RC4 and gig bag for the head. They have not arrived yet.

      The reason I ordered the foot switch is for the presets. I can see a lot of use happening with them just from the short time I have had the head. It will make it a lot easier to switch between them during songs.

      Until next time.

      • May 24, 2009
    • BASSically
      BASSically Well first gig done and behind me with this rig.

      3 one hour sets.

      It took me all of 10 minutes to set it up

      and make final tweaks for the room.

      The amp really packed a punch, filled and articulated very well.

      Volume setting about 10:30 on the dial. running the SR210 and Aguilar 2x12.

      The deep low end I have set up really loaded the room up. So I ended up just tweaking the low control down a bit. 2 clicks on the dial.. All done.

      Room was of a medium size venue.

      This amp was not even hot after each set which surprised me I thought for sure it would be.. Still need to tweak the P EQ's a bit.

      Oh yeah this thing packs real nice into my mini van didn't break my back loading it either. Leaves lots of room for other gear.

      I guess we will find out how the cabinet finish is going to hold out.

      One move - already some scuffs but no finish removed.

      The guys in the band were quite amazed yet again, that this little head could sound so big & accomplish so much.

      Unill next time

      • June 7, 2009
    • BASSically
      johnwentzien This is by far the best bass system I have EVER used!

      (i have used just about everthing out there in the past 30+ years)
      • June 23, 2009
    • BASSically
      BASSically Well here I am again.

      A few more gigs behind me using the rh450 rs210 and Aguilar2x12.

      Amp continues to be solid and tight. You have to watch the tube tone, sound tends to get a little loose if you use too much of it. It was awesome at the last gig maybe because I'm getting it tuned to the Musicman Bongo5 I'm using.. One of the guys asked me if I had turned up .. No was my answer. I was just playing a little harder which came out loud, clear & tight.

      So far I have to say this little amp has been just great. I have no trouble at all with getting my sound out.. and there is lots left if I need to turn up. Having the rs2x10 on it's end sure makes a differance in what you hear from this rig as well.

      Since my last post I have received the travel gig bag for the head just to transport it with some protection and I got the foot switch for selecting the presets & tuning. Yes I bought them..

      The foot switch is very very well constructed and should withstand many a heavey foot on the switches. It also will mute the amp for tuning if you wish.. It is worth the money and you should get it at the same time you buy the head.. You will not be disapointed.

      I used it extensively last gig. worked flawlessly, never even missed a note when changing pre sets during songs.

      The Rs 2X10 is not on the other hand standing up well to the riggers of the road cosmeticaly.. It is already showing wear (scratches and scuffs) from rubbing against other gear.. I guess a cover would be in order if you plan on road tripping this cab to any great extent. I think that if it had been carpet covered it would stand up better with out covers.

      These things do not alter the sound it pumps out ..I just like my gear to stay as new looking as possible.. So don't forget you will need a speaker cabinet cover if road tripping this.

      I have to say it is the best sounding rig I have had the pleasure to use to date hands down..

      It sure saves me carrying the pre amp, power amp combo I have been lugging.

      It has sure taken a back seat. I'm actually thinking of retireing that set up even though it is a year old.. the rh450 just out dose it with tons of tone..

      I'm waiting now for a larger gig where I have to plug into the main pa board. That should be interesting to say the least.

      Untill next time

      BASSically speaking..
      • July 2, 2009
    • BASSically
      BASSically Today is Sunday.

      I got in at 5AM this morning from playing a gig up North in cottage country..

      Was a good gig and the club owner wants us back again so All was good I guess.

      I had a great time with my rig..

      Had to put it through a big board last night.. It worked out OK.

      The DI output was supplying lots of signal to the board and it was set up with no real difficulty.

      They left my strip flat so I could come out of the head post with my sound already dialed in. It was real have no hassle..

      Rig worked its heart out and still was not even warm so I guess the engineers have the right size cooling equipment installed in this head..

      Sounds that this rig makes still blowing me away..

      I think for once I spent my money on the right thing..

      The moveable Perimetric EQ's were a brilliant addition as well. You can really dial in with these 4 PEQ's and I love em..

      Rs-210 still taking a beating from the road but is still sounding great.

      so I have a couple of weeks off now untill next gig which will give me some time to play with it some more at home.. More tweak time ..LOL

      Until next time BASSically speaking.
      • July 12, 2009
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