Statistics

294,005 members
177,065 posts
  • New
    Hrl21
    Newcomer - Level 1
    2021-04-12

    Tengo Turbosound ix12 que se escucha bajito. Cual puede ser posible causa del defecto? Gracias!!

    0 7,395
    • Hrl21
      KyleJohnson Hello, Kyle here from Music Tribe. For technical support I recommend you click on the Support link at the top of the community page and then submit a Technical support ticket.
      • April 12, 2021
  • netoalas
    Contributor - Level 2
    2020-05-30

    Hi everyone, I just bought a pair of IQ15 and a IQ18B, anyone knows how can I do a Factory reset on the settings and parameters? Would it do it automatically if I just run the firmware update? Also it is the older version of both, they still have the 1.7 firmware, any problem when updating to 2.2? Greetings 

    read more...
    0 850
    • netoalas
      GaryHiggins

      @netoalas 


      Hello, they should update just fine to the latest firmware. I don't recall a factory reset option but the parameters are straightforward enough to easily set such that the DSP is bypassed and eq is flat etc etc. I also think it more or less resets when you update it.

      • May 30, 2020
    • netoalas
      AlexLane

      Hi @netoalas 


      Power up the unit whilst holding down the PROCESS button to enter the self test.


       


      Press the buttons in sequence to run through the self test. The buttons on the LCD will fill as buttons are pressed, once complete the unit will be reset to factory settings.

      • May 31, 2020
    • netoalas
      netoalas


      @AlexLane wrote:


      Hi @netoalas 


      Power up the unit whilst holding down the PROCESS button to enter the self test.


       


      Press the buttons in sequence to run through the self test. The buttons on the LCD will fill as buttons are pressed, once complete the unit will be reset to factory settings.





      Hi Alex, Thanks for your help. I tried this and it did make a sort of test but it didn't reset the settings. I just updated the firmware and gave a reset to everything by selecting the loaded parameters the speakers have. It worked like a charm, everything is sounding tight.  I am loving the crisp high and mids I am getting, and the sub is not as chest pumping as I expected but I am loving the sound and depth it produces.  


       

      • June 1, 2020
    • netoalas
      netoalas

      Hi @AlexLane @GaryHiggins, I have a different question. Would you consider the SETUP that it brings INIT_DATA the best standard setup for the speakers? What would you consider the BEST standard parameters for the IQ 15 and the IQ 18B?  


       


      greetings and thanks for your awesome help 

      • June 1, 2020
    • netoalas
      AlexLane

      Hi @netoalas 


       


      In the Xover settings menu, on the iQ15 select the iQ18B setting


       


      SImilarly, on the iQ18B, in the Xover menu, select the iQ15 setting


       


      That will match the two up perfectly, with no need for extra settings


       


       

      • June 1, 2020
  • Armand_RSA
    Regular Contributor - Level 1
    2019-11-01

    Hi Music Tribe / Turbosound / Fellow Turbosound users,


    So on the Turbosound IQ series DSP screens there are two bars on the right of the screen indicating the audio levels. First is the input gain and the second is the output.


    I noticed that when running straight from a Pioneer DJM900 mixer, the input level reaches the "clip" level very quickly. (You can see it more clearly when using the Turbosound app on the laptop and connected via USB to the unit.) I now run with my DJM900 on-baord attunator always set at -6dB, but when not even getting close to any red led's on the VU meter, the input on the screen will still indicate it is clipping very quickly. I try to keep my levels mostly at the 0dB/top green LED, but this does not seem right. 


    This input level indicated on the IQ's screen (the left bar) is also post gain knob I have figured out, but it is almost impossible to turn the gain knob up till just under clipping (of the right/master level meter) without the left level meter clipping much quicker, this does not make sence at all. Or are the two level bars on the DSP screens for left: pre-DSP and the right indicating post-DSP?

    There are nowhere any clear info on what these level bars indicate.  


    Then I noticed something the other day when I used the (HW:A FW1.7) Turbosound IQ's together with (HWB FW2.2) IQ's.  The rig was connected in stereo and in series with the full range signal via XLR from the mixer going into an IQ18B bassbin (Fw 2.2) and then to an IQ15B (Fw 1.7) bin and then lastly into an IQ12 (Fw 1.7)  top. On the Fw 2.2 units the input level were constantly much higher than on the units with Firmware 1.7. All the rest of the DSP settings, gain knob etc where set the same, so this was very odd.


    Also, there is a big difference in the levels when using the DSP limiter at 0 and at -1. (Much bigger than the difference of going from say -1 to -2, and to -3 etc...) so I prefer not to use the limiter as it sounds like it reaches it's threshold way to quick. When the limiter is turned off there is much more headroom. 


    I think the engineers should just check the on-board DSP level meters (input/left side and output/right side of the on screen bars) as well as the DSP limiter behaviour.

    Nobody could also answer my question regarding if there is still a limiter active when the on-board DSP limiter is set at 0?
    (I want to ensure my drivers/amps stay protected, but setting the limiter at -1 looses too much volume) 



    Other than that I am extremely happy with the Turbosound IQ series. I hope I can get answers or a response for the above and sorry for language errors, English is not my first language. 

    Regards


     

    read more...
    0 817
    • Armand_RSA
      Armand_RSA

      These are the bars I am refering to

      IMG_5586.JPG
      • November 1, 2019
    • Armand_RSA
      Paul_Vannatto

      Hi Armand @Armand_RSA 


      Welcome to the forum. Assuming you are using the analog input and not the Ultranet input, just below the XLR input is a switch. It should be set to Line, not Mic. What you are describing sounds like it is set to Mic.


       

      • November 1, 2019
    • Armand_RSA
      Armand_RSA

      Hi Paul,


       


      Thank you for the response.

      It unfortunately is not the case and I can confirm this is with the switch set to LINE. 

      Extra note: Although the first level meter of the two bars shows clipping/limiting (the very top white square) it never has sounded distorted. When I noticed the 1.7 versions indicate a gain level much less than the 2.2 I figured it is just a glitch / bad programming, so I don't worry about the left bar when it reaches the top limit, as you can not hear any distortion articfacts in the audio.


        

      • November 2, 2019
    • Armand_RSA
      AlexLane

      Hi @Armand_RSA 


       


      I would like to clear up the Limiters confuision, the "user" limiter is a brick wall limiter designed for level limiting. Think of it as the noise police feature!


       


      With the user limiter set to zero, there are still seperate RMS and PEAK limiters designed to protect the drivers from over powering. These cannot be accessed by the user and are factory locked.


       


      Regarding the input question, input sensitivity is Line +4 dBu, mic -22 dBu. This could potentially be clipped by a particularly "Hot" mixer output.


       


      My reccomendation on the mixer side of things is to adjust the Master Level control so that the master channel level indicator lights at around 0dB at the peak level. This should allow plenty of headroom for peaks on the input to the IQ.


       


      It is worth being carefull to not red line the signal input to your loudspeakers, even at low volume a clipped signal can be quite damaging to loudspeaker drivers as you essentially create a squre wave which makes the driver move in a way the builds up a lot of heat.


       


      Clipping = Greater average power = More heat = Greater stress on the glues that hold a loudspeaker driver together = shorter life for the driver


       


      Hope that helps, let me know if you have further questions.

      • December 9, 2019
    • Armand_RSA
      Armand_RSA

      Hi Alexander,


       


      Thank you so much for the in-depth response Much appreciated. 

      Great, I understand the User Limiter now better. Thanks for clearing that up.

      Yes, you are very much correct. Softer but clipped (square waved) signals from the source/mixer unit are what destroys the drivers quicker. I always ensure not to send any clipped signals from my mixer to the loudspeakers.   

      Just a last question, if my mixer output's at 0dB (top green on the DJM900) and the gain knob is set to 0 on the back of the IQ loudspeaker, but the first bar/meter on the IQ's on-board screen is reaching the top/"max", is it safe to operate like this? I find that the first bar reaches max before the second bar. In other words you can not reach the max output of the loudspeaker/amp (indicated by the second/right bar) before the left/input bar maxes out?

      Kind regards
      Armand

      • December 11, 2019
  • EduardvanRaalte
    Contributor - Level 1
    2020-02-23

    Hi, I got a Tannoy Arena Subwoofer from a friend for repair. I managed to get the amplifier board out of the magnificent(!) box and also got the power supply out. When on there’s 7.7V between CD- and CD+. If the amp isn’t in standby I assume that should be much more. 

    Things would get a lot easier from here if I got a service manual or schematics. Any hint will be appreciated! Tia Eduard. Power supplyPower supply

     

    read more...
    0 758
    • EduardvanRaalte
      EduardvanRaalte

      I found them. Google for Indigo BASH 600109 to find the SMPS. 

      • February 23, 2020
    • EduardvanRaalte
      Johanmk77 Did you find the problem? I have almost given up.
      • November 20, 2020
  • New
    Behringer
    Triber Moderator
    2021-06-25


    DR18SUB

    bit.ly/Behringer-DR18SUB

    Powered by a 2400-Watt Class-D amplifier, an 18” long-excursion subwoofer and an incredible array of professional features, the DR18SUB produces extreme levels of deep punch, along with the definition and clarity typically reserved for much larger systems!

    Learn More: https://youtu.be/R4hSKhWUYIo
    List Price: $449

    #Behringer #DR1SUB #DRSeries #Portable #Active #Powered #Loudspeakers #Speakers #Subwoofers
    read more...
    0 727
  • Bradadams
    Newcomer - Level 1
    2020-10-04

    Is it possible to purchase a new V2  processor/ bluetooth interface to install in older V1, We have a new V2 on order and what to use them as a pair. We have lost the app connectivity and have no way to update firmware, thouht this might  be our only fix.

    Cheers regards brad

    read more...
    0 664
    • Bradadams
      DavidKnighton Hello Brad Auld,
      The components between the two versions are not cross compatible. This would technically void your warranty as well, because it's not a modification we offer.
      • October 7, 2020
    • Bradadams
      Bradadams Thanks David so under warranty how do I get the ip2000 v1 to work properly as it no longer connects to control app and needs firmware upgrade . Your help in this would be appreciated.
      • October 7, 2020
      • Ip2000v1 to v2 retroetrofit upgrade (turbosound)
        DavidKnighton Hi Brad,
        The V1 systems don't support firmware upgrades at all. Only the V2 systems support firmware upgrades. Can you tell me whether you're using Android or Apple device? First thing you need to do is establish whether the speaker connects via Bluetooth. The app 'should' connect as long as the bluetooth function is working. You may want to try a different device, maybe from a friend or colleague just for the sake of testing.
        • October 8, 2020
  • New
    mgpaco951
    Newcomer - Level 1
    2021-02-27

    Hello I bought a Behringer MPA200BT on 4/10/18 but the battery doesn’t charge anymore where can I buy a replacement battery, please help

    0 536
    • mgpaco951
      Nigel67 Hi, Please contact our spares department and they will be able to quote you for a replacement battery. This can be done by clicking on the support tab at the top of the page. This will open a new window. Scroll down and click on the Spares tab and submit a ticket. Many thanks
      • February 27, 2021
    • mgpaco951
      JasonMaier Fire hazard.... I too purchased one of these early model MPA200BT. My battery also went bad around the same time. But instead of it just going dead it leaked battery acid all over the circuit board, destroying the unit. I filled out the 3 year warranty as soon as I got the unit. Unfortunately Behringer claims that this is not covered under the warranty period. I find this kind of behavior by a reputable company unacceptable. When I opened the MPA200BT the acid had shorted the battery wiring and was visibly burnt black and hot. I'm glad my house did not burn down. Long story short Bheringer will not honor their warranty and will not stand behind their products.
      • June 30, 2021
  • JuliaSP
    Contributor - Level 1
    2019-10-07

    Hi,  I got an email about your new product C210 column speaker.  I was literally about to listen to/possibly buy some other brands but thought I'd hold off as I ahve a Behringer mixing desk, and thought I'd check it out.  Looked up ALL the websites for the suppliers listed...nothing...no one has details on the weight of the unit, spec, costs, when it's all going to be availalble? Anyone know?  

    Thanks in advance.  

    J

    read more...
    0 507
  • vincentmac
    Contributor - Level 1
    2020-03-09

    Customer support is unresponsive and I have questions. I am trying to replace power supplies for my QFLex16 m-1 and sb pairs. When we removed these from one of our spaces the power supplies were left behind. I have reached out to spare parts tickets, the customer service portal and anywhere I can try to get ahold of people but have had no luck. trying here...

    read more...
    0 483
    • vincentmac
      RexBeckett


      @vincentmac wrote:


      Customer support is unresponsive and I have questions. I am trying to replace power supplies for my QFLex16 m-1 and sb pairs. When we removed these from one of our spaces the power supplies were left behind. I have reached out to spare parts tickets, the customer service portal and anywhere I can try to get ahold of people but have had no luck. trying here...





      @vincentmac 


      Hello Vincent, welcome to the community.


       


      The Care ticket is currently the only way to request technical support, service and spare parts from any of the Music Tribe companies. Did you get Care tickets raised? You should be able to see them through the Care Portal. Some people have missed responses because the emails were routed into their spam folders. 


       


      If you tell us the Care ticket numbers, we can get someone to check into them for you.

      • March 9, 2020
    • vincentmac
      Matthew_Simmons

      CAS-107668-K1X4P5 How about this case number? 

      • June 9, 2020
    • vincentmac
      soundtechsunited

      hey, so I am having trouble getting in contact with anyone at music tribe... this is my question:
      "Hi,
      I am writing to you in regards to my account. I registered a couple of products back in 2019: Midas M32; Midas MR32; Midas DL16... so I already had an account under this specific email address... I recently made a purchase of a Midas MR18, I believe I purchased it on 05.28.2021 from sweetwater.com;

      I am about to login to my account to register my new product, I notice that it says "user account does not exist" So I am wondering what is going on? I have my username and Password written down... why does it not exist? Anyway, I had to register all over again, and I assumed the products I purchased back in 2019 will appear on my account... to my disbelief, it does not..... Can you please tell me what happened to the registered products I had on the account? I just registered my "Mr18" and would like it if my other products that I registered back then reflect on my account please. thank you.

      Duberney Quintana since no one is answering me, I would like it if you could answer this question here for me...

      • September 4, 2021
  • BronxBluesman
    Contributor - Level 2
    2019-11-15

    I just purchased 2 IP300 and 2 IP12B sub's

    I am looking for covers for them and do not see any on the Turbosound web site.

    Love these speakers and want to protect them

    0 442
    • BronxBluesman
      KenMitchell

      Hi Barry ( @BronxBluesman ), 


       


      Welcome to the community.  I'd recommend you check out Tuki Covers.  They have one specifically for the ip300 but I didn't see one for the ip12b.  They do have one for the ip15b so I'm sure they'd be happy to make custom one for you for what I've found to be a very reasonable price.  I've found their quality to be top notch. 


       


      http://www.tukicovers.com/amp-and-speaker-covers-bags/turbosound/turbosound-inspire-ip300-powered-column-loadspeaker-padded-cover/


       


      Hope this helps, 


      Ken


       

      • November 16, 2019
    • BronxBluesman
      BronxBluesman

      Thanks man:


      I have another question.


      What is the best way to cable from my IP300 to my IP12B

      • December 15, 2019
    • BronxBluesman
      KenMitchell

      @BronxBluesman 


       


      Hi Barry, 


       


      It depends on what mixer you are using and if you want the mixer to control the low end or use the crossover in the sub.  I'd probably start with a pair of XLR cables from the mixer L/R into Input A/B of the IP12B and then I'd take a pair of XLR cables from Link A/B on the IP12B into Input A on each of the IP300s. 


       


      IP12B-IP300.png


       


      Hope this helps, 


      Ken


       


       

      • December 15, 2019
    • BronxBluesman
      BronxBluesman

      I am using an Allen and Heath Zed 10 FX


      Right now i am going from the board to the IP12B and then to the IP12B


      Are you suggesting i go to the sub first?


      By the way thank you for taking the time, i so not no much out this and am learning

      • December 15, 2019
    • BronxBluesman
      KenMitchell

      @BronxBluesman 


       


      Hi Barry, 


       


      I usually go to the sub first to keep as much cabling as I can on the floor and to reduce the number of cables I have to run to the PA speakers.  Rather than running 2x XLR cables + power up to the speakers I only have to run 1x XLR cable + power if I come off the sub.  Electrically it's the same either way. 


       


      Ken

      • December 15, 2019
Go to page