By now everyone must know that the G-Major was an OK unit for the time with the exception of the rotary encoders.  I had one ten years ago and it started to get flaky so I sold it.  For some really odd reason I decided I wanted one again and I would resolve myself to deal with the encoder issue one way or the other.

I bought this on Reverb.  I asked the guy if the encoders worked OK.  "Everything works" he said.  Well, he lied.  But you know what?  I knew he was lying.  The probability of a G-Major with working encoders is just about zero at this point.

First off, the G-Major has 4 encoders.  2 are ALPS "ring" encoders and two are regular pot style rotary encoders.

I diassembled the unit, which isn't that hard, and took the front panel PCB off so I could work on it by itself.

I clipped off the encoders when they soldered to the boards then used my soldering iron with a manual solder sucker to clear the holes.  I lifted a trace on one hole connecting to the pull up resistor.  Fortunately I noticed it and was able to fix it with a short bit of solid hookup wire.

I got ten PCB mount encoders from Digi-Key for about $1.50 each before shipping and tax.

Bourns part

Then I cut a small piece of Vero board to mount the encoders to.  I ran wires through the existing holes for the center encoder and then slid the Vero down over those wires.  The encoders and wires solder to the top of the Vero.  I figured out where to run the wires so that the encoders adjust things the right way when you rotate CW and CCW.

I had a weird short when I reassembled the first time.  I was checking the encoder behavior frequently but somehow one of the lines got shorted to ground.  I removed and replaced the encoder and it worked.

Now, for sure it looks pretty bad compared to the original.  However, it actually works properly instead of flashing, doing nothing, skipping backwards, skipping over the setting you were trying to reach, etc. which is how it acted before this.

I would describe this as a reasonably advanced electronics tech project.  For me the biggest challenge is seeing things.  I use a magnifier headband thing which helps a bit.

Just boutght these devices from Sweetwater along with TC ICON Docking Station it lights up but in Studion One. \

Comes up with a message to activate this plugin and enable controls. Please connect your TC 2290 Module or enter your activation Code using the iLok Manager. Never received the iLok Code for these two products. I do however have iLok account. 

Hi Music Tribe Members!

At Nov 27th 2021 I brought an TC VSS4 Native (Upgrade from VSS3 native) via your website.

I didn't get an activation card yet! My already checked my spam folder, there is nothing.

It seems the I am not the only one having an issue with that.

I am sure you are working hard on a solution.

Here is my PAYPAL confirmation with

 

Hi, 

 

My system 6000 just crashed and it asked for a restore code.  Please find attached the restore key and the serial number for my unit is 287725.

Please get back with the restore code as soon as you can.  I'm in the middle of finishing up the mix for an album.

 

Cheers,

Meaw

 

 

 

Good day,

Since purchasing the mastering pluging it has become my goto suite for my facility.  I have never used a single alone product but the MD4 completely blew me away. A nice Dynamic EQ before it and a quality Dither after it and you have the end all.  This is coming from a mastering engineer with many Platinum records and 2 decades of experience.

Now the issue.  Recently Steinberg updated Wavelab Pro to version 11 and all went to poop.  As soon as I add MD4 native to my chain my resources fly up and I start making a remix of the work im doing.  I cant even make a single pass before im shut down. So.  I move back to 10 and Im good.  Unfortunately I want to use my MD4 IN WLP 11.  Know what I mean.  I have the features I need and I think its time for an update off of 1.0.  Im willing to try a 1.0.0.1 if it will help get this thing going.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Emailing support doesnt seem to help since this has been a long time issue.

MacBook Pro - Intel
Big Sur - Current
MD4 Native - 1.0
A whole butt load of crazy highend converters and analog crap that is useless as far as im concerned.

I would be willing to take one of your Clarity M Loudness meters for all of the stress this has caused me over several months.  I can probably push your MD4 on my 80k strong social media but you would have to throw in a hat or a shirt.  We can discuss the size.  I have a large head.

Thank you for any help on this matter.

I encountered a couple of problems and I would appreciate all the help on this.

Problem #1: My TC Electronic G-Force "shuts down intermittently". 

Problem #2: The LCD Screen blanks out "intermittently", reboots and turns back on a few minutes. 

Please help me find a remedy.

Thank you kindly.

Hey Folks,

I just got my PlethoraX5 yesterday and been having a blast.  I noticed that in the manual that it specified to only use the supplied TC Electronics power supply.  Can I safely use the PlethoraX5 ith a 1Spot Trutone Power Supply?

Here is a link to the power supply

Model:  NW1-US
Input:  100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.35A
Output:  9V --- 1700mA (Max.)

Juuuuust making sure.  Also, every once-in-a-while, I get the Plethora "lock up" on booting.  Does this happen from time to time?  I'm attaching some pics.

Also, is there a "clean" way to power the unit off?   Or, just kill power to it.  (Newbie question...)

THANKS SO MUCH EVERYONE. -- Just want to make sure I don't screw anything up with my new purchase.
Will

Hello,   (Seem that I can't find the right category) 

Not too long ago that I just got the GoXLR Mini and trying to get things perfect but not going the way I wanted it to go. 

Firstly for OBS, for Broadcast outpoint, I have the volume scroll up to max and yet when gaming, talking and other sounds is only maxing out to (Image)

When I watch other people, or on YouTube, they have the same setting but they are up in the yellow marker, the only way for me to do so is to go to "advance Audio Properties" and have broadcast set to 250% (8.0 dB) to 300%. My point saying that I do not have to do that? I mean is that right?

Also

I'm using AT2020, and yeah it's not easy to remove background and also not trying to cut out the voice at the same time. But this is another problem on my hands. When I set up the microphone to be as perfect as I can, my voice sounds a little higher than game sounds, on Discord (Discord setting maxed out) people can't hear me. When adjusting microphone settings again to louder and to get it as perfect as I can, people in Discord can hear me however on OBS the microphone is way too loud. Can't win.

So what I have done is, setup another channel just for the microphone on OBS and just the volume input on OBS 

So need tips and help, please? and as I'm typing my microphone is being picked up on OBS and the mic is not even near me.