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167,220 posts
  • BenGodard
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-09-26
    I have a rackmount Lexicon MPX1 stereo effects processor and as far as I know it's a line level unit but it does have a level knob on it to adjust the gain. However, the TC 2290 I just got looks like it is only for instument level. My question is does the TC 2290 only allow an instrument level effects units to be run through the effects send/return loop? If that is the case then that is very unfortunate because most high quality rack mount effects are line level.

    I would like to hear from those who have owned a TC 2290
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    • BenGodard
      Laird_Williams

      BenGodard wrote:

      I have a rackmount Lexicon MPX1 stereo effects processor and as far as I know it's a line level unit but it does have a level knob on it to adjust the gain. However, the TC 2290 I just got looks like it is only for instument level. My question is does the TC 2290 only allow an instrument level effects units to be run through the effects send/return loop? If that is the case then that is very unfortunate because most high quality rack mount effects are line level.



      I would like to hear from those who have owned a TC 2290


      Why are you posting this to the G-System user forum? A G-System is not a 2290.
      • September 26, 2009
    • BenGodard
      BenGodard I thought current users of the G-system might have previously used the TC 2290 and might be so kind to offer help. Guess I was wrong. Sorry to break the chain of thought on the G-series. I wouldn't have bothered if they had a forum on the TC2290 delay.
      • September 27, 2009
    • BenGodard
      Laird_Williams

      BenGodard wrote:

      I thought current users of the G-system might have previously used the TC 2290 and might be so kind to offer help. Guess I was wrong. Sorry to break the chain of thought on the G-series. I wouldn't have bothered if they had a forum on the TC2290 delay.


      There might be a few. I think TC should set up a "legacy products" thread for you guys. There are still a lot of users of the 2290 and some of their other gear out there - and you don't appear to have a "home" right now.
      • September 27, 2009
    • BenGodard
      FrankSteffenMül Hi,

      i use this old thread for my TC2290.



      The question about the TC2290:



      When I turn the delay off (bypass), the stereo return (loop 5) doesnt`t work anymore - it`s mono.

      Is that normal?



      all the best

      Frank
      • May 18, 2010
  • jamie_dan_r
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-09-21
    Hello.

    we use TC 6000 units chased via timecode. this, up till now has been fine for us. We are finding more and more we need to conform the patch automation.

    we have now set up midi to give us control through protools for when we conform the patch changes.

    What I cant find is a Midi patch name file for the TC6000 unit. does one exist? If so i would really appreciate a link to it.

    Thanks.

    jamie.
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    • jamie_dan_r
      maggot a heads-up for you and any others with this issue (everyone I guess)



      I have added support for re-conforming of the TC6000 snapshot automation to my "conformalizer" application.

      the feature is in a BETA state but has been used successfully on a couple of big feature mixes.



      contact me for details if you want to give this a try - there are a couple of gotchas in the current implementation but it is still very useable.



      apologies to the board admins if this reads like advertising.

      justin webster
      • September 30, 2009
  • leperclown
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-08
    Hi all,

    I have just got an FC300 and unfortunately, you can't name presets on the unit display in 'standard' mode (very dumb!), however you can name pre-sets in 'Patch Mode'.

    I was wondering if anyone has used patch mode with the GM. I would like to access my GM2 presets by sending program change messages, but I would also like to be able to kick in different effects within a patch (e.g. wah) and use the foot pedals to control the wah, whammy, volume etc).

    As usual, the manual is short on detail.

    Any help (even just a confirmation that what I want to do is possible) would be much appreciated.

    Cheers

    Paul
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    • leperclown
      martynjeffries I've only had my G-Major and FC300 for 3 days so I'm learning (fast) what's possible. It sounds logical what you are requesting. Did you make progress since August?
      • January 20, 2010
    • leperclown
      leperclown G'day Martynjeffries,



      I'm happy to report that I have had success using the Roland FC300. However, I have to use the unit in "Patch Mode" rather than "Standard" mode.



      I am able to access any patch on the GM2 and any switching combination on the JVM410, together, via midi. Features that I have set up include:



      - Exp Pedal 1: wah or other controllable parameter depending on patch

      - Exp Pedal Switch 1: wah on/off

      - Exp Pedal 2: Volume (toe down 100%, heel down 70%)

      - Exp Pedal Switch 2: Volume mute on/off (for silent tuning)

      - Patch & bank selection using Mode and numbered switches

      - CTL1 & 2 toggle effects on/off within each patch

      - Display: Each patch named, with JVM channel/mode detail (great for knowing where you are without having to look at the amp or GM2 display!)



      Using "Patch" mode requires a little bit of "programming". In this regard, I found the manual sufficient, but not really helpful. A bit of trial and error is involved, but the results are worth it.



      The only problem I have encountered so far, is that in using the CTL switches to toggle effect on/off, the lights on the CTL pedals do not necessarily idicate whether the effect is actually on or off - easy to get used to though.



      The other benefit of "Patch" mode on the FC300, is that you can transmit midi in several channels. I have bought a TCE Nova Drive (great unit) and I intend to run it, via a midi splitter, in front of the JVM, but controlled by a different midi channel to the GM2 and JVM.



      Best of luck!
      • January 22, 2010
    • leperclown
      martynjeffries Thanks for the info. I didn't realize there was a switch under the expression pedals - I wondered how the on-off light was supposed to work.



      I have not gotten as far as Patch mode but have set-up the following;



      Standard Mode



      Banks and Patch selects are normal in LINEAR mode so numbers match the DISPLAY.



      I changed the "SYS: PC Mode" to SOUND MODULE. This allows me to select MSB 0 for Factory presets or MSB 1 for User presets.



      CTL 1 = TAP TEMPO



      CTL 2 = BYPASS



      EXP 1 = EFFECT Control



      EXP 2 = VOLUME



      then in CONTROL (CC) mode.



      Mapping pedals 1-5 CCs to effect blocks ON/OFF for FILTER, COMP, MOD, DELAY & REVERB.



      This allows me to create a sound within a PATCH of certain block combinations without having to change to whole patch - essentially like a stomp box mode within each Preset.



      Following your info - I'm now going to set-up the EXP 2 Switch for Tuner MUTE.
      • January 22, 2010
    • leperclown
      Eptesicus79 Hi leperclown,



      I use the FC-300 as a MIDI controller for a different unit, the Digitech 2120. In response to what you said about the lights on the CTL pedals, I have the same issue. For example, I successfully programmed CC#80 (Chorus) to CTL1. I press the switch, & Chorus turns on...OK, great....



      However if I switch to a different patch in Standard Mode, the CTL light stays on. If I switch back to the patch I was using to turn the Chorus on, CTL1 is still lit, but the effect is not turned on. I actually have to hit the switch (light goes off), then hit it again (both the light & effect turn on).



      Has anyone figured out a way around this? Its as if the controller or the unit isnt communicating to its full potential or something.
      • January 27, 2010
    • leperclown
      kalimera Hi

      Can anyone do a step by step guide of how to set up the fc-300 in patch mode to change my presets on the GM2.



      I`m ok in standard mode, but as has been mentioned you can`t name them in std mode.



      I usually set up my patches with the song titles in my set.



      cheers



      Mike
      • March 11, 2010
  • Goonga
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-07
    Hi, just thought I'd share this experience with you folks - there are so many variables with this stuff, in the end you have to use your own ears, but this might steer a few less experienced users in the right direction.

    I am a session muso and bought the Nova to replace a large pedalboard for fly-in gigs (as Australian airlines have started to kill touring muso's with their baggage allowances!). The music I play requires a lot of clean patches, ie. there is no hiding behind a wall of distortion when trying to get a great tone.
    As with any digital converters you have to be really careful about how you set your levels etc. and I discovered this was absolutely critical with the Nova - just a few dB difference when setting up the 'Input Gain' structure can completely change your tone.
    This may not work for everyone, but this is what I found worked the best with my setup (Senn Telecaster into a '68 Deluxe Reverb) and it's not what the manual suggested... (-:
    (I tested this in a studio with an A/B box and an isolated amp in a separate room so that volume etc. didn't cloud my judgement).

    I firstly did what the manual suggested and brought the input level up to unity (playing as loudly as possible) then backed it off a couple. This was definitely not the optimal setting (which was about 20 for my tele). I noticed when playing higher up and digging in, the top end was quite nasty so I backed it off even more - and after going up and down the settings, found the best spot was 14 - nowhere near the unity gain indicated by the Nova. Just a few dB either side of this was a completely different and less usable tone (higher up was nasty, lower was dull and lifeless). So... that part of the setup is crucial to getting the best out of your unit - and I suggest spending a fair bit of time finding the best spot for you and your particular guitar.

    I also noticed (and expected) that there were still some deficiencies in the tone when A/B'd with the straight-in guitar (due to the A/D conversion in and out of the unit) - although have to say it was better than expected. By putting a Keeley compressor before the unit and using a very low compression setting and just boosting (the Keeley also 'fattens' it a bit) the guitar signal ever so slightly it brought the 'through the unit' tone much closer to the direct guitar (of course if you're going to do this you have to recheck your input level settings).

    My last improvement involves the boost option. I disabled it! (if you want to do this, do it before any of the other stuff). I love the idea of having a boost (can't live without one) but with the TC units (I used to own a G-System as well) all you're doing is lowering the original signal before it gets to the boost and then just bringing the signal back up to it's original level when you hit the boost. It is a subtle effect on your tone (by having it lowered a few dB) but it all adds up and this is definitely not the way to boost your signal (IMHO). It would have been fantastic for TC to have a separate Analog circuit for the boost after everything else in the unit. But, considering how cheap these things are - that might be expecting a bit much.

    Hope this all doesn't sound too negative - I think for the money, this is the best unit on the market for this niche - and I have tried them all!!!!

    If anyone from TC is listening... is there a way for the boost button (now irrelevant on my unit) to be switched to an EQ on/off button?

    Love your work.

    Goonga
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    • Goonga
      divil Great advice there Goonga...it's a shame also that the input level is not saved with the bank/patch....having 3 guitars with 3 different output level means trying to find a 'ball park' setting is not the best!



      Divil
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Goonga Hey Divil,



      Yep, it's a critical part of the equation and with varying guitars it's an issue...
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Jawa This a great overview. Thank you. Input setting per preset seems like it should be part of the next update!
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Chris78 Hi Goonga,



      thanks for sharing you experience with us! I'd like to know something regarding your explanation of the boost function. I guess you're right - when solely looking into the digital domain, the boost can't push the signal higher than 0dB, which means the unboosted signal has to be levelled somewhere below that. But do you really think that the internal leveling of the signal some dB below the max produces a loss of tone? The Nova has a resolution of 24Bits, which is a lot of headroom. Is it possible that you just forgot to adjust the overall output level of the Nova, so that you're now getting a clean tone into your amp that is quieter than when going directly into it? This would surely give loss of tone, especially with a tube amp that expects a proper input level.



      I set the Nova up this way: After bringing up the input level to unity gain, i compared the Nova output volume with the bypassed volume. Hearing that the Nova was some dB below my bypass signal i adjusted the output amplifier of the Nova, which is accessible via the levels menu (advanced mode, i guess) to +14 dB, thus bringing both signals to equal volume. When i now hit the boost, it is definitely a boost, the Nova makes the signal louder, pushes the amp harder, etc. while my unboosted signal is as loud as if going directly into the amp.



      Best, Chris
      • September 8, 2009
    • Goonga
      Goonga Hey Chris78,



      I'm hoping you're right - will test it out. I haven't done a thorough test (for the boost) with the Nova - I did, however, do it with the G-System a couple of years ago and there was definitely tone loss unless the boost function was removed so just assumed they were using the same thing in the Nova.



      Will test it out in the studio this week and let you know what the ears think... if you're right it would mean not needing to take a boost pedal to gigs - which, of course, would make my day. However, I have my suspicions - I know it's 24bit, but noticed that even a couple of dB either side of the optimal input setting was enough to change the tone quite dramatically (to my ears).



      Thanks,



      Goonga
      • September 9, 2009
  • Headhunter
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-01
    I bought the RH450 a few months back. At the time, I also bought the 2x10 and 2x12 cabinets. Well, long story short, the cabs didn't do it for me. Just not the sound I was looking for, nothing wrong with them, just not me.
    I replaced both cabs with a Berg AE410, which I really like the sound of, however, I find that the 4x10 configuration lacks some of the bottom end my old amp, with the 15 inch woofer supplied.
    Here's my first question... can I run the RH450, with the Berg AE410 and an 8ohm 15 inch cabinet, without causing the head problems. Also, am I asking for trouble running an 8ohm cab in combination with a 4ohm cab?
    (If this is a stupid question, just ell me, I'm a big boy! LOL)
    Also, I've noticed with the foot pedal that when I turn the amp on, no pre-sets are turned on. The amp settings are static from the last time it was turned on. (I actually haven't really set up the pre-sets yet... I'm still having fun playing with the amps versatility) I have bungled one pre-set to a reasonable sound, but don't know how to get the amp to go back to the original settings, short of turning it off, than on again. Anyone know how I get back to the original settings?
    Thanks
    Headhunter

    PS... really glad I found this forum!
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    • Headhunter
      rune Hi,

      8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms (ok)

      8 ohms + 4 ohms = 2.67 ohms (not ok)

      Since the RH450 handles a minimum load of 4 ohms, you should stick to 2 x 8 ohm cabinets.



      I am not entirely sure what you mean regarding the presets. If you have not saved any presets, and are not recalling any presets then the amp will simply be as it were when you turned it off. If you need to do a complete reset of all settings in the amp, hold down the 3 preset buttons on the front panel while powering on the RH450.
      • September 1, 2009
    • Headhunter
      Headhunter WEll, for not understanding my question entirely, you actually answered my question... thank you!

      Regarding the impedance question, I am having something of a difficult time understanding how an amp the can run three 8 ohm cabs, is not capable of running the a 4ohm and an 8ohm cabinet. If I understand correctly, you are being very conservative with regard to this question as I am sure it's one that comes up frequently. I assume many folks have inquired regarding different cabinet configurations and as a result, you folks are being careful not to provide advice that could damage my Rebel Head.

      Thanks for you consideration

      HH
      • September 1, 2009
    • Headhunter
      rune I wrote an FAQ on that specific subject:

      ------------------

      Conventional wisdom would tell you, that since the cabinets are 8 ohm and the amp is rated at 4 ohm you would only be able to connect 2 cabinets. However, a speakers impedance varies depending on the specific frequency. A speaker might be 4 ohms in the lower range but could at the same time be 8 ohms above 10Khz. So a speakers rated impedance is an avarage across the spectrum. Since the speakers in the RS cabinets are custom made we know the exact Ohm rating of the them, and have therefore been able to design the amp so that it can drive 3 of the RS cabinets.

      ------------------

      In addition, a slightly lower impedance will most likely not damage the amp as such, but will probably shorten its lifespan.
      • September 2, 2009
  • gtr475
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-08-29
    Where can I buy the "special" split midi cable to use with the Nova drive and G-system?
    And can I still controll my amp via midi after installing this cable?
    0 13,829
    • gtr475
      niilz Still not available as far as I know...



      ...might be produced after the V1 and X1???



      LOL
      • August 29, 2009
    • gtr475
      keychange I think there was a post saying they were available to order from TC through your local music store but you are looking a 4 weeks or something along those lines for delivery. You can make one in under an hour if you don't feel like waiting that long.
      • August 29, 2009
    • gtr475
      gtr475 Does anyone know how this Novadrive split MIDI cable is connected? What I have understood is that it goes from the MIDI connector on the Novadrive and splits up into two cables that go into the IN and OUT on the G-system. But that takes away any chance of controlling other midi devices such as an amp. Do I have to use a MIDI splitter box or something to controll an amp? Or have I missunderstood this Novadrive split MIDI cable thingy?
      • September 10, 2009
    • gtr475
      Laird_Williams

      gtr475 wrote:

      Does anyone know how this Novadrive split MIDI cable is connected? What I have understood is that it goes from the MIDI connector on the Novadrive and splits up into two cables that go into the IN and OUT on the G-system. But that takes away any chance of controlling other midi devices such as an amp. Do I have to use a MIDI splitter box or something to controll an amp? Or have I missunderstood this Novadrive split MIDI cable thingy?


      If your amp/amp switcher has a MIDI thru, you can use that. Otherwise, yes, you need a midi thru box. See this thread for more discussion - and please try using the search function of the forum a little more...:



      http://forum.tcelectronic.com/viewtopic.php?id=3889
      • September 10, 2009
    • gtr475
      tone-o-matic Received my tc electronic MIDI Split-Cable yesterday, earlier than expected. What should I say: black, short, clean and it works. For those, who might be interested...
      • September 18, 2009
  • ash457
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-08-27
    Hey guys, having some problems with the whammy section. I've set it all up with an expression pedal and it's all calibrated correctly however is there a way of just shifting the pitch itself without super imposing it on top of the dry signal because theres no way of choosing the wet and dry signal with the whammy function on the g system.

    Thanks
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    • ash457
      bucketbot You need to set the mix level to 100%.



      Then you will only here the altered pitch & not the dry signal.
      • August 27, 2009
    • ash457
      ash457 Thanks for the quick reply there, there doesnt appear to a be a mix function.



      Under Whammy we've got:



      Pitch



      Dir – Direction



      Range



      OutLev – Out Level



      Enable





      No Mix, thats the problem
      • August 27, 2009
    • ash457
      bucketbot Just checked the manual & your right!!



      However Mine seemed to work OK when I tried it earlier.
      • August 27, 2009
    • ash457
      ash457 Well it states here the whammy effect allows you to control the pitch of an "added" voice with an external expression pedal. However I was hoping it was changed and not added.



      Yeh I'm using the 4 cable set up and everythings in a serial loop. Think it just might not be a feature of the G system to just change the pitch rather than have it added on top unless yours definitely does not do that and does what I'm after?
      • August 27, 2009
    • ash457
      elvis If you are doing a wet/dry setup with 2 amps, you would have to turn off the dry for this patch. If you are doing a more standard setup, there is a factory preset that has whammy with no dry signal - check those settings. I think there may be separate volumes for each voice or something. Anyway, I have it working with only one voice.
      • August 28, 2009
  • therthace
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-08-24
    I just make a midi split cable (y-cable) for my nova drive. Thanks dave

    I'm trying to make some presets and I found weird thing.
    I don't know why but nova drive is making beeping sound regularly. Also, it makes sound when I change its parameter.

    I checked my cable and there was no problem.
    If anyone knows how to fix it please let me know
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    • therthace
      soundtrack2life Make sure that on the end that connects into the G System that pin 2 and the shielding is not connected. So you only have wires going to pins 4 & 5. That should do it. . .
      • August 24, 2009
    • therthace
      therthace

      soundtrack2life wrote:

      Make sure that on the end that connects into the G System that pin 2 and the shielding is not connected. So you only have wires going to pins 4 & 5. That should do it. . .


      yeah I followed the diagram.
      • August 24, 2009
    • therthace
      keychange Mine only has 2 wires going to each y end and 4 going to the NDR end and it works without the beeps. It might be a grounding thing, I think there was a post from Laird that touched on a clicking sound along the same lines.
      • August 24, 2009
    • therthace
      therthace

      keychange wrote:

      Mine only has 2 wires going to each y end and 4 going to the NDR end and it works without the beeps. It might be a grounding thing, I think there was a post from Laird that touched on a clicking sound along the same lines.


      hm... I thought there were three lines for each line 2 for covered wires and 1 for naked wire. 2 wires are connected with 4,5 pin and naked wire goes to pin number 2.
      • August 24, 2009
    • therthace
      keychange I wasn't sure which pin was supposed to be ground so I did the quick version to test with and it worked fine so I didn't bother trying to figure it out
      • August 24, 2009
  • mamunoz
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-08-22
    Hello, I am new in this group and I have a question about the TC 2290. Does anybody know if is possible to control the fx loops using MIDI messages? I have been reading the manual but it does not says anything about wich midi numbers (0-127) can control any of the FX loops in the 2290's rear panel.

    Thank you for any comment about this.
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    • mamunoz
      scottbmckin Hi,



      I think I have it worked out but it a little complicated. This is what you need:



      Axess CFX4 or similar midi controller that can take a midi cc change and convert it to a momentary switch output (1/4" mono jack).



      You need to build a TC 0050 controller which is basically a resistive circuit that the TC 2290 can recognize through the Assign input of the TC 2290.





      You connect as follows:



      Midi out of G System to the midi in of the CFX4. The midi out of the CFX4 into the midi in of the TC 2290. Set 4 CC's on the G System to control the momentary relays of the CFX4. You will also control PC's with the G System. Note you can assign 4 switches on the G System to control the CFX4 relays.



      Connect the CFX4 to the TC 0050 then connect the output of the TC 0050 to the Assign input of the TC 2290.



      The trick is that you will have to build a TC 0050 but you will use the switches of the CFX4 instead of standard foot switches. You can use either mono or stereo jacks for the TC 0050 depending on the leads you use. I can email a diagram if you need it.



      Thanks
      • August 24, 2009
  • jansenh
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-08-19
    So, the RH450 will handle a 4 ohm load. At the same time, it can handle 3 RS210/RS212 cabinets, each being 8 ohms. 3 of there cabinets is less than 4 ohms...?

    Will it be safe to use 1 RS210 cabinet with an Ampeg STV410HLF (4 ohms) powered by a RH450?

    Cheers, Henning - Norway
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