Solutions

269,543 members
149,256 posts
  • simplifyroger
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-06-23
    I've had my Staccato'51 for about 9 months. Has worked great since the purchase, but I went to power it up for practice and the head appears to be dead. No lights. No fans. No nothing. Switched power outlets and checked the power cable. Still no power. Didn't want to open the head for fear of voiding the warranty. Wondering if there is a fuse on the amp that may need replacing. Any ideas?

    I love this amp. Need to get it working asap...

    Thanks for any help,

    Roger
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    0 2,334
    • simplifyroger
      simplifyroger Anyone? Any ideas? I'm dead in the water right now...
      • June 26, 2011
    • simplifyroger
      JahooRoisym Damn - would not like to be in your position.



      The manual says that there are no user-servicable parts inside, so I would double check if its not the cable or the socket (which you probably did many times by now) and head to the store with warranty papers.
      • July 9, 2011
  • dieselmx
    Contributor - Level 2
    2011-06-20
    Anyone use the Nova System with a Blackstar HT 40 or HT 60? Looking to get one and want to know if anyone has any experience with them or even with a Nova. The reviews are nuts on these Blackstar HT's.
    0 14,444
    • dieselmx
      76_ Hi

      I use the HT 5 if thats any help...Really nice warm sounding amp with plenty of gain...Very loud for its size
      • June 20, 2011
    • dieselmx
      dieselmx Yea im going to Guitar Center this week to play the Blackstar HT 40 .. from all the videos I have seen it looks and sounds amazing .. not sure if it would be better than the Egnater Renegade though. ... we will find out ... thanks.
      • June 21, 2011
    • dieselmx
      ifailedshapes What type of sound are you going for, and what's your budget?
      • June 21, 2011
    • dieselmx
      ifailedshapes Okay, so I think I got a feel for what the Blackstar sounds like (thanks, YouTube), and I want to throw out another idea for you: Mesa/Boogie Express. There are two versions of this amp, the 5:25 (25 watts, EL84s) and the 5:50 (50 watts, 6L6s).



      I owned the 5:25 in a 1x10" combo and loved it, though the 12" version will sound a little better. You can find these used for around the same price as the Blackstar, and it's a much better amp. Why do I think it's a better amp?



      - It's built by the same hands that make Lone Stars, Mark Vs, Dual Rectifiers, etc. It's not treated as a budget amp in their eyes; it's simply the least expensive.



      - It has two independent channels, each with gain, volume, 3 band EQ, reverb, and contour. Both channels have 2 modes, and they can both go from pristine clean to great overdrive sounds.



      - The contour control is simply amazing. It's basically a 5 band EQ turned into a knob. Once you dial in your sound using the bass, mid, and treble knobs, a touch of contour can really round out the sound. Also, by turning the contour on and off, it's almost like having a 4 channel amp... almost.



      - While I usually like digital reverbs, the tube-driven spring reverb in the Express is just amazing.



      - You can use the foot switch to change channels, turn reverb on/off, and turn contour on/off. Plus if you ever upgrade to a piece of gear that has amp control switches (G-System, G Major 2, etc), you can use 1/4" jacks to control all of the same functions.



      - The amp doesn't really have a sound of its own. It's so versatile. It can do pretty much anything you want it to. Most amps have a couple sounds that they were designed for, but the Express is super versatile. Actually, it's a little too versatile for some, because they find all these good sounds, but can only have 2 setup at a time.



      Anyway, I'll stop gushing. You really need to try one, though. I sold my Express a few months ago so that I could afford a Stiletto Ace head, and while I love the Stiletto, I really miss the Express. It's a solid amp.



      Here's a good review to read: http://www.in2guitar.com/frames.html



      And here's the online forum: http://forum.grailtone.com/viewforum.php?f=30



      Please PM me if you have any questions. I love this stuff.
      • June 21, 2011
    • dieselmx
      Medik98 I think B.S. sounds sweet! However Im a sucker for Brit sounds. All have some little variences but B.S., Vox, Orange, Laney FTW!!!
      • January 16, 2012
  • SatDoug
    Contributor - Level 2
    2011-06-14
    Hi All:
    OK, I know they are different. I prefer to play with just a touch of reverb...very, very little, similar to a 'room' setting, versus a hall, etc.

    I bought the Flashback hoping I could coax this tiny bit of artificial reverb from it, while at the same time having it for delay as well as the looper function (I realize you can only have one type of effect at a time). So three for the price of one, sort of.

    My question...has anyone figured out a setting that would give a very mild reverb sound from the Flashback? I sort of came close with delay & FX level at just below 9 o'clock, and feedback at about 10 o'clock, while the toggle is at the third position, using either the analog or 2290 type delay. I was wondering if anyone else had success with different settings.

    Also, regarding the pedal itself...I notice if I pick it up and mess around with it when connected (regardless if it is on or off), I hear some noise, which is only really noticeable when using the dirty channel of my Orange amp...it is gone on the clean channel. It's not the cables, and I am on battery power. Using it in normal fashion, on the floor stomping it, has no problem. So pick up your pedal when connected to a dirty channel and shake it and lemme know!

    Thank you!
    -Doug
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    0 10,699
    • SatDoug
      PaulAngle Check out the Reeves Gabriel toneprint for ambiance and tone it down.

      The Flashback Reverb is an amazing unit.

      I love reverb myself and prefer the plate mode. I had a new Hardwire RV-7 right before the toneprint series came out and it remains my fav reverb pedal of all time. Got it for like $50 on a misprint sale price, sweet.



      I love the reverb because you do not lose control of your tone or sound and the trail is delicious. I also love a deep long throw reverb which gets into Jeff Beck territory I have always liked because it keeps your tone dynamic, it is rather an art to use delays and hard to find just the right repeat trail under your tone.



      The Plate on the Hardwire is a thing of beauty. I am sure the TonePrint Reverb is great but I had just got the new unit and could not see dropping it because it is so good. As for modes on the Flashback, I think you are on the right track using the 2290 because it is the cleanest maybe also try the slapback, also the DYN as it is the 2290 delay with dampening which actives on pause and trial. Should work because that is all a reverb is, a really short delay with ambiance repeat.
      • June 20, 2011
    • SatDoug
      jetdriver +1 Check the Reeves Gabriel Flashback TP. Adjust to taste.
      • June 30, 2011
    • SatDoug
      Shayks21 what settings do you use with this toneprint? no matter what I do I get a long delay, no ambient sound, feels like something is broken...other toneprints work and I tried beaming this toneprint multiple times.



      please check out this vid to hear the issue:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U61MNuhaJTs&feature=youtu.be



      thanks
      • April 19, 2014
    • SatDoug
      hallofnova i don't think a delay can give you light, room reverb. a delay with more repeats to sound reverby will become pretty dense. if you increase time between repeats to let it breath, you're going to get distinct reflections so it'll sound more like a thick plate setting, than a room.



      it'll sound good. just not what you're looking for.
      • April 21, 2014
  • ronnylay
    Contributor - Level 2
    2011-06-13
    As G system has noise gate built in, do we need an external noise gate like the ISP G string?

    and if yes, where is the best to put it in the system or loops?

    I have an ISP g string, however when i boost my solo the noise is still too loud, the hums...the ISP can cut it but also cut my sustains,,,

    i put the ISP at loop 3, and when i solo i have my JVM 210H at clean channel, i also using my Suhr Riot, Cark Martin kick boost, and the G's noise gate, at -5db
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    0 9,585
    • ronnylay
      viclen The G's noisegate gets bad press but I'm not sure why. It's very flexible and more than capable of reducing incoming noise. I've never seen the need for an extrnal gate.



      Vic
      • June 13, 2011
    • ronnylay
      Laird_Williams

      viclen wrote:

      The G's noisegate gets bad press but I'm not sure why. It's very flexible and more than capable of reducing incoming noise. I've never seen the need for an extrnal gate.



      Vic


      The G's gate is great for what it is - a simple, post-gain gate. No other simple gate on the market, placed in the loop, will do substantially better.



      But that's where it stops. Get a gate that separates the detector and muting circuitry so that they can be located optimally (with the detector EARLY in the signal chain where it is most accurate and with the mute later in the signal chain) and the G's gate will have a hard time competing.



      And any gate- g-system or otherwise - should be the LAST thing you try to use to reduce noise in your rig. The gate is just "paint". Your signal is the "wood" and the noise is "rot". "Painting" over "rotting wood" is not the best approach to making the wood look good. Better to make sure the wood has a minimum of rot before using paint to protect it. Sometimes, the wood does not even need paint then...
      • June 13, 2011
    • ronnylay
      ronnylay Thank you laird and viclen!!



      Laird is there any previous post mentioned a physical setup with the chain u mentioned here? How and what pedals to buy and place in the system? I m hving a hard time of killing the feedbacks when i boost my solo



      Thanks!!
      • June 14, 2011
    • ronnylay
      Laird_Williams

      ronnylay wrote:

      Thank you laird and viclen!!



      Laird is there any previous post mentioned a physical setup with the chain u mentioned here? How and what pedals to buy and place in the system? I m hving a hard time of killing the feedbacks when i boost my solo



      Thanks!!


      You might consider taking a look at the sample rig described in section 5.2 of the G-System white paper.
      • June 15, 2011
    • ronnylay
      ronnylay Thx laird!!
      • June 15, 2011
  • tostoi
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-06-08
    Hi,
    I tried to reinstall my firmware. Now my G System frezzed on "Burning Flash" like 30 minutes... sorry 'bout my english...
    someone can help me?
    thanks,
    Tostoi
    0 13,200
    • tostoi
      Mel What version?
      • June 9, 2011
    • tostoi
      EduardoNieto Hi, i have the same problem. my G-System are in "green screen of death", and after to reinstall the software it freeze in "burning flash".

      im tryig to reinstall the 4.02 R1737 firmware.

      Can somebody help me?

      Thanks and sorry for my english
      • August 2, 2011
    • tostoi
      Stringer76 I had the
      • August 3, 2011
    • tostoi
      Stringer76 Not sure what happened to my last post. I'll type it again. I had the same problem when updating my firmware and saw somewhere on this forum about using a powered USB hub in between the G and computer. It worked for me, so if you have a powered USB hub it's worth a try.
      • August 3, 2011
    • tostoi
      EduardoNieto Thanks Stringer76. i did it and doesn´t work. the problem remains the same. some times i turn it on and it work for few seconds and them it freeze.

      i´m very sad, i have only 2 weeks with my G.
      • August 3, 2011
  • Blindado70
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-06-04
    Does anybody have u2 -like settings for flashback delay?
    0 8,653
    • Blindado70
      PaulAngle I've gotten it on several modes and toneprints just use the 1/4 and 1/8 note toggle repeat so it is dual tap delays and usually a shorter slapback delay time. It takes his odd technique to get the right arpeggio repeat going.



      I love what that guy does with effects and is not afraid to play something really simple that would sound like nothing without the pedals and allows them to warp the sound into a strange musical tone. He also gets a hats off to me for having probably the largest array of effects and being able to maintain and control them. I cannot do what he does but I love the tones.
      • June 20, 2011
    • Blindado70
      ierrewien I did found a website with some delay settings. Maybe that helps you a little?
      • October 18, 2012
    • Blindado70
      thenedster What website? I'd like to check it out too please!
      • February 24, 2013
    • Blindado70
      PA Just FYI. The factory B preset is as close as it gets. 2290 delay mode w mod 1/8. and 1/4 toggle both on, adjust delay and repeats to taste. Does an excellent job for one unit. Factory picture and settings are on this list if you need further help. I just started messing around with the Edge's tones and this works very well. I was working out Magnificent and this seems to hit it dead on.
      • February 24, 2013
  • iamharlan
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-05-29
    So...my one (seriously, just one) gripe about the Flashback is the mute during audio tap. I have a volume pedal placed before all my pedals in my loop...so I typically have the volume down before a song begins and tap out the tempo. So far so good... but what happens if I missed that tempo to begin with, and now my delay is off time? In the past, I've had the external or separate tap that I could just tap to while still rocking the song. The Flashback mutes the whole signal, so I either have to cut myself out of the song, or live with an off-time delay. Is there any way to stop this pedal from muting the signal completely. It can stop the delay itself, if it needs to (like most others), but I need to at least still have the dry signal available during those moments I'm getting it back aligned.

    Sorry for the long explanation...I'm just hoping this is somehow possible...I have a friend who's pretty wiring/tech savvy, so if it's a simple schematic issue, let me know and I'll get it modded.

    Thanks!
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    0 4,605
    • iamharlan
      TC-Mike Hi Harlan,



      it is not possible to remove the signal mute during audio tapping, as is is needed for the tempo recognising part of the algorithm- and since you usually tap a sequence quarter notes

      most guitarists wouldn't want this to go over PA at full blast in a live situation. Using a Volume pedal in front can of course work around this, but we had to design it so it works without additional tools.



      cheers,



      Mike
      • June 7, 2011
    • iamharlan
      JohnnyCeravolo Is there any way to mod the pedal to incorporate tap tempo with an external switch? It is so frustrating to not be able to adjust the tempo while playing. It's the best sounding delay pedal I've ever used, but the tempo issue is incredibly frustrating. I don't want the x4, it's way too big, and I find that the band slows down and speeds up during songs depending on the energy of the show. Not having the ability to adjust for this is driving me nuts. If TC is not going to offer a mod, can they at least offer a model that goes between the flash back and the x4 in size? I love this pedal and don't mean to be negative or mean. I'm just really frustrated because I can't find a pedal that sounds as good and I can't enjoy the flashback because of the inability to change tempo while playing.
      • September 12, 2014
  • Stef
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-05-28
    Hai

    My 12v output from the G system to the Nova Drive doesn't work.
    I have the original 12v adapter cables that came with the G system.
    Has someone the same problem?

    Greatings

    Stef
    0 8,123
    • Stef
      Mel What 12V output from the G-System? The G-System cannot power the Nova Drive... voltage is too low (9V) and the current available is insufficient.
      • May 28, 2011
    • Stef
      Thumbshifter Mel beat me to it. The Nova Drive needs 12V but the G System only has 4x9V outputs. You'll have to use the supply that came with the Nova Drive (or run a separate power supply on your board)
      • May 28, 2011
    • Stef
      utterlyguitarde To me, it's the only flaw of the Nova Drive...but, a pretty big one!
      • May 28, 2011
    • Stef
      Stef ok thought ze power supply was 12V from the G



      Thnx
      • May 28, 2011
    • Stef
      Mel

      Stef wrote:

      ok thought ze power supply was 12V from the G



      Thnx


      The ND works with 9V with reduced dynamic range but the more serious problem is the G-sys doesn't supply enough current (ma).
      • June 2, 2011
  • BANSAVAGE100
    Contributor - Level 2
    2011-05-25
    Recently I have had a number of problems rangeing from Vol. Exp. pedals not responding and now several effect switches not responding after downloading the 4.02 upgrade. I have spoke with Tech Support and they told me to roll back to version 2....which I did..... upgrade again,....which I did....Now I have to ship my unit in and have it repaired.
    350.00 bucks flat rate.
    Also, I have had problems with the Vyzor. Sometimes I can controll certain presets and sometimes whatever I change on the Vyzor. doesnt effect the unit.
    Seems to me TC Electronics should fix my equipment with no charge.
    Anyone haveing these issuees?


    I talked with tech support and they wer very helpful, In fact, After a two day email session,my G system is up and runnig like new.
    Thanks for saving me 350 clams tech boys.
    read more...
    0 1,558
    • BANSAVAGE100
      jeeky1 I have 4.02 & am backing now, all presets one at a time? You said you talked to Tech Support...what's their number please?

      Thanx
      • August 30, 2014
  • tah1962
    Contributor - Level 1
    2011-05-20
    I just received a brand new Flashback delay and put it on my pedal board and it wouldn't power up. I was using my Dunlop DC brick. It made my other pedals start blinking and making wierd noises. I then tried powering it through my Boss TU2 tuner with the same results. I then powered it by itself with a 1-spot and it worked fine.

    Any idea what the issue is? Here is my signal chain.

    Front end of amp:

    Keeley compressor>Ernie Ball Jr. volume pedal>VoxV848 wah>Boss TU-2 tuner>Timmy>OCD>BB Preamp>FLASHBACK>EP Booster

    Effects Loop:

    Voodoo Labs tremolo>Nebula Phaser>Deep Blue Delay>Srymon Sky Blue Reverberator>TC Nova Repeater

    Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated. If I have to use a seperate power supply for the Flashback I am going to send it back. Thanks.
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    0 12,728
    • tah1962
      swal Your most likely reaching the max of what your One Spot can handle in terms of current (ma). I ran into the same problem when I added a Nova Mod to a board that already has a Nova Delay, HOF and several other pedals on it. I believe the newer One Spots are rated up to 1700 ma. Between your Nova, Blue Sky and Flachback alone you will be hitting peaks of 800 ma at startup. With most of these daisy chained power supplies, if you get near 3/4 of its ma rating (anything near 1200 ma), which you are, your going to run into trouble like this.

      I was forced to use the wall warts for my Novas until I upgrade to a better powersupply.
      • June 15, 2011
    • tah1962
      PaulAngle Honestly, stop daisy chaining power feeds if you care about your tone.

      It only works with a lot of pedals that are not true bypass as the buffers hide the ground loop hum and noise floor. Ever get switch popping on the bypass pedals?

      The DC brick is also not a isolated filtered power supply brick. The best and only bricks worth considering are the Voodoo Lab 2 and the SupraCharger by BBE. Isolated and filtered supplies.

      Since the DC brick is more or less a daisy chained supply the total draw of milliamps cannot get close or exceed the total draw of all the pedals. Some modern pedals will not even turn on unless they see the proper power feed which serves to protect them. Much less voltage is not an option, unless a pedal states it can handle a range of perhaps 9-18v you give it exactly what it requires. Some old school players used to like to sag the voltage on old pedals giving them a weird sound but in general modern pedals want what they are designed to operate at which is usually 9v. You can usually give a pedal more mA than it needs but not less. Most pedals run a drain of less than <100mA so the common supply is usually a 100mA feed, try running a 200mA pedal on that 100mA feed and it most likely will not turn on.



      I suspect the DC brick was not able to deliver a high enough mA current. The general electrical rule is that you can have more mA than a device needs, but not less.



      Nothing wrong with using warts for special pedals as frequently bricks are not able to supply really high current pedals. I run a BBE Supra Charger for up to 8 pedals of common <100mA 9-12v and it has 2 capable of 200mA 16v. I have a special power strip that is angled for different size wall warts which several of my effects have to have. The master power feed for my amp and boards comes off a Furman Power Conditioner 110v.



      I found some pedals, especially Fulltone have problems with other pedals getting switch popping and hum and it is always your power supply. Usually putting the problem pedal off on its own wart will fix the issue.



      If you care about your tone, power supply feeds matter as much as quality cables. A slight investment assures all the bucks you drop on pedals gets the quality fuel they need to perform as designed.



      The One Spot thing works as Visual Sound and Boss pedals are not true bypass and the buffers hide signal degrade and noise floor they also muddle your signal. A chain of Boss will kill your straight tone fidelity and headroom, the buffers will keep up the signal strength but too many buffers are not good just as the myth of all true bypass is not the best chain.



      The best combination is a sandwich of buffer pedals on the ends and true by pass in the middle or as close to that as you can get. Usually as long as you have a good buffer pedal first in chain it helps your signal. A good quality buffer pedal will drop the impedance to low and allow long cable runs and chains without signal loss or cap load.
      • June 22, 2011
    • tah1962
      Laird_Williams

      Paul Angle wrote:

      Honestly, stop daisy chaining power feeds if you care about your tone.

      It only works with a lot of pedals that are not true bypass as the buffers hide the ground loop hum and noise floor. Ever get switch popping on the bypass pedals?

      The DC brick is also not a isolated filtered power supply brick. The best and only bricks worth considering are the Voodoo Lab 2 and the SupraCharger by BBE. Isolated and filtered supplies.


      There are several other manufacturers/models who have excellent, isolated and filtered supplies out there all of which supply far more power than the PP2 and BBE. The Voodoo Labs (ISO5), T-Rex (Chameleon, and others) and Cioks (TC-10, DC-10, etc.) come to mind. Eventide also re-brands a CIOKS unit as the PowerFactor that can run all 3 "factor" pedals (notoriously high-power) simultaneously.



      Nothing wrong with using warts for special pedals as frequently bricks are not able to supply really high current pedals.


      The above-mentioned power supplies have multiple isolated outputs that can supply 300ma or even 400ma at several different voltages, some switchable. I run a Nova Drive (300+ma at 12Vdc), ModFactor (350+ma at 9VDC), Lehle Sunday Driver (@15VDC), Barber Tone Press (trickle @ 9Vdc), and Decimator G-String (9VDC) each on their own isolated power circuits from the Cioks DC-10. I have no wall warts on the board. It works and sounds great.
      • June 22, 2011
    • tah1962
      PaulAngle Actually there are more and they cost more. The VL is reasonable and the BBE a little less than that. I am about ready to replace my unit and I plan to get the VL 2 as even Fuller recommends that one. The Voodoo Lab 2 is the most recommended and the most used on a lot of boards. Everyone I have seen lately I listen to uses the VL. Even Bob Bradshaw of CAE uses them.



      The important thing is the isolated and filtered supply feeds.



      I have one pedal that is a 24v and no brick can feed it and another that requires a 500mA feed no brick can deliver. I do not mind using a few high current/power warts as it does help break the ground loop possibility and the only thing that ever worked for me on some Fulltone pedals to kill the noise floor. I gave a special power strip mounted on the back on my board which also draws from the Furman power condition my main comes from. It is not real issue for me to have any separate warts as in my case there is no real choice. I haven't seen anything put out 24v or 500mA.



      Fuller gives you a Fulltone wart for the DejaVibe as that puppy probably has the same problem with power supplies. I had a Fat Boost 3 that had a hum and if you went up to 18v it was really loud, not bad at 8 or 12 but annoying. Finally stopped when I gave it a separate wart supply. I have been overjoyed with the Radial I replaced it with that is also an excellent real buffer pedal. Putting that 1st in chain really helped my board.



      I'll bet you dig that Lehle, I was looking at that before I went with the Radial PB1. The Radial was like $60 less which really helped my budget. Say how does that ISP work for you, many times I have thought about getting one but my noise floor is pretty low even at high gains.
      • July 1, 2011
    • tah1962
      Laird_Williams

      Paul Angle wrote:

      Actually there are more and they cost more. The VL is reasonable and the BBE a little less than that. I am about ready to replace my unit and I plan to get the VL 2 as even Fuller recommends that one. The Voodoo Lab 2 is the most recommended and the most used on a lot of boards. Everyone I have seen lately I listen to uses the VL. Even Bob Bradshaw of CAE uses them.



      The important thing is the isolated and filtered supply feeds.


      ...and supplying enough current at the right voltage(s). The VL2 fell short, and the BBE fell WAY short of supplying what my board needed. And I do have an issue with giving up real-estate to a power strip, given what is already on the board.



      I have one pedal that is a 24v and no brick can feed it


      Any brick with a pair of 12vdc isolated outputs can feed it with a simple and inexpensive voltage doubling cable.





      and another that requires a 500mA feed no brick can deliver.


      similarly, there are current-doubling cables out there. Now, look at the isolated 300ma outputs on the T-Rex or the 400ma outputs on the Cioks and tell me that your 500ma pedal can't take 600ma from the T-Rex or 800ma from the Cioks...



      I do not mind using a few high current/power warts as it does help break the ground loop possibility and the only thing that ever worked for me on some Fulltone pedals to kill the noise floor.


      Ground loops are a non-issue if your brick has PROPERLY implemented isolation. Such a brick is NO different than having multiple wall-warts plugged into a common power strip.





      I gave a special power strip mounted on the back on my board which also draws from the Furman power condition my main comes from. It is not real issue for me to have any separate warts as in my case there is no real choice. I haven't seen anything put out 24v or 500mA.


      That's great if it works for you. A lot of us have no real-estate available to deal with a power strip. For example, in addition to the pedals I listed in my prior post, I also have - on that board - a G-System, a 2-outlet Furman AC Power Conditioner, and the Cioks DC-10...and room on both the Cioks and the board for ONE more high-current pedal if I want to add one...and that's IT.





      Fuller gives you a Fulltone wart for the DejaVibe as that puppy probably has the same problem with power supplies. I had a Fat Boost 3 that had a hum and if you went up to 18v it was really loud, not bad at 8 or 12 but annoying. Finally stopped when I gave it a separate wart supply. I have been overjoyed with the Radial I replaced it with that is also an excellent real buffer pedal. Putting that 1st in chain really helped my board.


      If you are dealing with a lot of pedals, I am not at all surprised that the PB1 helped a LOT.





      I'll bet you dig that Lehle, I was looking at that before I went with the Radial PB1. The Radial was like $60 less which really helped my budget. Say how does that ISP work for you, many times I have thought about getting one but my noise floor is pretty low even at high gains.


      I do like the Lehle, but I would be surprised if it were noticeably better than the Radial. My experience with the Radial equipment is that it is first-rate. The Boost'n'buff is in the same class too.



      I like the ISP, but my rig is so quiet that it is only needed when I am both

      A) in an environment that has a lot of RFI that my guitar pickups are absorbing into the signal path AND

      B) combining a high gain channel on my amp WITH an OD of some kind.

      Either A or B is not the case, I have no need for it. Were it not for occasional bouts of A+B, I would remove it from the rig and dump it on Craigslist.



      It is an excellent gate...but I don't like gates and try to avoid them wherever possible. I am EXTREMELY aggressive about attacking noise at its source so I don't have to band-aid it with a gate.

      1) I have well-shielded, properly grounded pickup cavities in the guitar, as well as a proper string ground. I also play humbucking pickups almost-exclusively.

      2) I run signal path isolation for ALL interconnected between AC-grounded devices in my rig to eliminate the possibility of ground loops.

      3) Any cable run over 10' is BALANCED.

      4) My rack has heavily-shielded audio signal cable bundles running up/down the rack wall on one side while the AC power chords for the devices run down the rack wall on the OTHER side.



      I am also working on building a new amp that uses ALL-TOROIDAL transformers to keep the magnetic emissions down, uses conductive-plastic pots and metal film resistors (for larger-value resistors) to remove thermal hiss, and uses an isolated, filtered, regulated 12VDC supply (actually a high-current switch mode supply) for the tube heaters to remove heater noise. Like I said, I am EXTREMELY aggressive about noise.
      • July 2, 2011
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