Solutions

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127,240 posts
  • JohnnyBallgame
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-10-15
    Ok. So I recently just added a Boss 500L pedal to my rig so now I'm using a Boss 500H for a Volume Pedal and the 500L for Expression. I'm using a stereo cable to connect each of those pedals to the G system. Previous to setting up the new pedal I had no issues with the G. Now I am getting an intermittent cut out of the signal. It's very brief (no longer than a second) and then the signal comes right back. So brief in fact its almost like a clip.

    I've checked all my cables and they're ok. I also have a noise gate but I turned it off to test and the signal still cut out so its not that either.

    Has anyone experienced anything similar? Any information would be GREATLY appreciated!
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    • JohnnyBallgame
      Rob Does it happen when you set the pedal slightly back? If so, redo your pedal calibration!
      • October 15, 2009
    • JohnnyBallgame
      patrickt69 I'm having much the same problem I have had no problems with the G Sys I added an Ernie Ball Junior VP now as soon as I back off the Volume on the pedal I get an intermittent jump in volume that lasts only a fraction of a second I have checked all cables as soon as I unplug the VP I have no problems also using strereo cables I tried to recal it and still the same problem is anyone else having this when I havve the Volume pedal at full the is no jumping in volume



      PLEASE HELP
      • October 15, 2009
    • JohnnyBallgame
      Laird_Williams

      patrickt69 wrote:

      I'm having much the same problem I havve had no problems with the G Sys I added an Ernie Ball Junior VP now as soon as I back off the Volume on the pedal I get an intermittent jump in volume that lasts only a fraction of a second I have checked all cables as soon as I unplug the VP I have no problems using strereo cables


      This really is not close to the same problem as the original poster - as there is a HUUUGE difference between sound cutting out and occasional volume spikes where the actual continuity of the signal is unbroken - but....



      Are your patch volumes set below full volume? If so, then when you touch the volume pedal at near-full volume the G will set the volume to what the pedals says - which may be higher than what the patch says. In such a case, the volume will go up to the pedal's level and then follow the pedal down.



      Not a definitive diagnosis by any stretch - but worth investigation.
      • October 15, 2009
    • JohnnyBallgame
      Laird_Williams

      Johnny Ballgame wrote:

      Ok. So I recently just added a Boss 500L pedal to my rig so now I'm using a Boss 500H for a Volume Pedal and the 500L for Expression. I'm using a stereo cable to connect each of those pedals to the G system. Previous to setting up the new pedal I had no issues with the G. Now I am getting an intermittent cut out of the signal. It's very brief (no longer than a second) and then the signal comes right back. So brief in fact its almost like a clip.



      I've checked all my cables and they're ok. I also have a noise gate but I turned it off to test and the signal still cut out so its not that either.



      Has anyone experienced anything similar? Any information would be GREATLY appreciated!


      Are you connecting to the Floor Controller or the GFX01?

      Please don't get confused...if you do not have your G-System "Brain" (the GFX01) in a rack, then your pedals are connected to the GFX01, not the floor controller.



      I ask because volume pedal wiring appears to be dependent on which volume pedal jack you are using. Most of us have better luck with one mono cable going from the GFX volume jack to the pedal - but a TRS/Insert cable when connection a volume pedal to the floor controller.





      Please note that, when using the Volume and Expr. jacks on the G-System, NO audio signal passes through the pedal. The G is just "reading" the value of the resistance it gets from the potentiometer in the pedal and using that to decide how much control to apply digitally. The point is, it is NOT ILLOGICAL to use a mono cable. You don't have to worry about "getting your audio signal back into the unit".
      • October 15, 2009
    • JohnnyBallgame
      JohnnyBallgame Thanks! I'm using my pedals with the GFX01 (don't have it in my rack and the CTRL settings are all set to "off"). So perhaps I'll try it with a mono cable. I have also read on another thread (which unfortunately I can't find right now) that changing the position of the volume from output to input has an impact on the volume pedal. Do you think changing this would help?
      • October 19, 2009
  • gr33nacr3s
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-10-14
    Hi. First off, thanks to all who have posted on the various products. I've been reading the pages trying to determine if the unit I received is defective or not without much luck Hopefully Laird or Elvis will be able to shed some light on this.

    I received my G Major 2 yesterday, and have come across something an elevated white noise issue which would indicate if the unit I have is defective or not. I have a Fender Blues Deluxe reissue at home as my practice amp. When I connect the G major 2 to it, there is a considerable increase in the whitenoise coming from the amp. If I disconnect the GM2, the whitenoise disappears. I've attempted the following to try and narrow down the issue:

    - Use alternate power outlets on separate circuits.
    - Connect GM2 in effects loop with multiple balanced (TRS) cables.
    - Connect GM2 in effects loop with multiple unbalanced cables.
    - Placed the GM2 out of the effects loop (guitar --> GM2 --> amp) with multiple balanced (TRS) cables.
    - Placed the GM2 out of the effects loop (guitar --> GM2 --> amp) with multiple unbalanced cables.


    Additionally, I've attempted the following as well. Even though the below settings were investigated, the amount of white noise coming through never changed when actually changing the settings:

    - modified both input and output levels (knobs on the front left)
    - tried both consumer & pro settings
    - enabled the noisegate (worked excellent at not allowing the signal, but the white noise remained)
    - modified both global in level, and global out level without much luck.

    Like I indicated above, while I was changing the values, the amount of white change was never impacted. It's only when I disconnect the GM2 that the noise drops. I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville at the studio which I'll test it on next. I can't help to wonder though if the one I have is defective though. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!
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    • gr33nacr3s
      Laird_Williams

      gr33nacr3s wrote:

      Hi. First off, thanks to all who have posted on the various products. I've been reading the pages trying to determine if the unit I received is defective or not without much luck Hopefully Laird or Elvis will be able to shed some light on this.



      I received my G Major 2 yesterday, and have come across something an elevated white noise issue which would indicate if the unit I have is defective or not. I have a Fender Blues Deluxe reissue at home as my practice amp. When I connect the G major 2 to it, there is a considerable increase in the whitenoise coming from the amp. If I disconnect the GM2, the whitenoise disappears. I've attempted the following to try and narrow down the issue:



      - Use alternate power outlets on separate circuits.

      - Connect GM2 in effects loop with multiple balanced (TRS) cables.

      - Connect GM2 in effects loop with multiple unbalanced cables.

      - Placed the GM2 out of the effects loop (guitar --> GM2 --> amp) with multiple balanced (TRS) cables.

      - Placed the GM2 out of the effects loop (guitar --> GM2 --> amp) with multiple unbalanced cables.





      Additionally, I've attempted the following as well. Even though the below settings were investigated, the amount of white noise coming through never changed when actually changing the settings:



      - modified both input and output levels (knobs on the front left)

      - tried both consumer & pro settings

      - enabled the noisegate (worked excellent at not allowing the signal, but the white noise remained)

      - modified both global in level, and global out level without much luck.



      Like I indicated above, while I was changing the values, the amount of white change was never impacted. It's only when I disconnect the GM2 that the noise drops. I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville at the studio which I'll test it on next. I can't help to wonder though if the one I have is defective though. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!


      We need to isolate this.



      1) Make sure that no guitar is plugged into the amp input to begin with. That way, was can rest assured that pickup noise is not contributing to this.

      2) Make sure that the G-Major2 is on a setting with all FX bypassed, so we know that an effect is not amplifying/exacerbating any noise.

      3) If things are pretty much just as noisy as before...try the following

      - Using Mono cables for now...

      - Put the G-Major 2 in the loop - but pull the input to the G-Major. Keep the connection from the output to the amp FX return there.



      How is the sound now? If you still have the white noise, I suspect a ground loop across that linkage and you may need isolation.
      • October 14, 2009
    • gr33nacr3s
      gr33nacr3s Thanks for the response (and your time) Laird. I'll try your suggestions tonight and advise.
      • October 15, 2009
    • gr33nacr3s
      gr33nacr3s Hi Laird. I've removed the guitar, bypassed all the effects, and pulled the input to the G Major while leaving the output to the amp fx return connected. Unfortunately, the white noise is still there. Is there anything else I may try?
      • October 15, 2009
    • gr33nacr3s
      Laird_Williams

      gr33nacr3s wrote:

      Hi Laird. I've removed the guitar, bypassed all the effects, and pulled the input to the G Major while leaving the output to the amp fx return connected. Unfortunately, the white noise is still there. Is there anything else I may try?


      So...EITHER

      1) The GM2 is generating a lot of white noise (seems unlikely...but we can check) OR...

      2) Your FX return is generating a lot of white noise. This seems unlikely - but it can be tested too). OR....

      3) You have a ground loop that is picking up noise from somewhere and passing it on to your amp. This is the most likely culprit.



      To test #2: Run a cable direct from the send of your amp to its return. How do things sound now? I suspect they sound fine - but if not, then your amp has an issue.



      To test #3: Put an isolation transformer between the GM2 Out and the amp FX return. The EbTech HE-2 is a good one. If you have a ground loop, this will break it. Buy one from someone who will let you return it in 15 days or whatever so if it does not help, you can get your money back. Run a TRS cable from the GM2 Out to the HE2 Input. Then run a short TS patch cable (no more than 18" or 1/2M) from the HE2 Output to the amp FX return.
      • October 15, 2009
    • gr33nacr3s
      gr33nacr3s Thanks Laird, much appreciated. #2 tested fine. I have the Ebtech on order. I'll try it out, and keep you updated.
      • October 18, 2009
  • SBurks
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-10-13
    I purchased The Finalizer in 1996. I do not believe it is the 96k version. Is it possible to upgrade to the 96k version?
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  • agamemnon2
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-10-04
    My unit exhibited the following problems.
    1. After power-off, on powering on again the unit would take maybe 30 minutes to come up again.
    2. Once it was up, attempts to download the firmware update would fail.

    On investigation, the voltage inputs on the board for the 3.3V and +15V,-15V rails were noisy.

    The problems were fixed by replacing 2 electrolytic capacitors on the power-supply board (like-for-like components).

    (Do not even consider doing any such modification on your unit unless your unit is out of warranty and you are entirely competent with soldering electronic repairs around power-supplies - there are dangerous voltages even when unit is unplugged.)
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    0 26,249
    • agamemnon2
      RonaldH In my case I have the same problem. Startup problems after the power connector has been disconnected for a short while. In case it stays connected, powering on the system does not give problems. Downloading of update 1.27 does not work however.

      I measured the voltages after plugging in the power connector and after the system starts working (5 to 10 minutes later). I do not see a difference in voltage level.

      Did you check the voltage inputs using an oscilloscope? What excactly did you see. What capacitors did you change? There are quite some elco's on the power supply board.
      • October 13, 2009
    • agamemnon2
      agamemnon2 The voltages measured ok with a meter, but on looking at the rails with an oscilloscope, both the 3.3V and 15V had a superimposed noise wave of about 0.5V (the +5V was clean). I saw no visible difference whether the unit had just powered up or not.



      So I decided to start replacing the ecaps, starting at the point where the 3.3V rail exits the PSU board, replacing the caps with the same value (maybe a slightly higher voltage rating) - I bought a bag of capacitors from Maplins (UK). Changing the one closest to the edge made no difference. The next one I changed was the next inboard of that, on removal I noticed it was very 'squashed' at the bottom. On replacing that one, the 3.3V and 15V rails were totally clean. The unit has worked fine ever since, and the firmware upgrade succeed first time.



      Sorry I did not record the component ids I changed. I noticed there was another post on the web that changed some capacitors, but the components referred to were not present on my board, so there are probably more than one version of the power supply PCB around.
      • October 14, 2009
    • agamemnon2
      RonaldH Using the info you gave I also changed the electrolytic capacitors you have changed. Believe it or not it works. I my case the the superimposed voltage was around 100mV. Starting up and downloading works fine now. Like it is a new unit again. I think the bad voltage is the root cause for many problems which are given on this forum.

      Everybody having a soldering iron can fix this problem. Be sure to unplug the unit before starting to fix it. Also be sure that you prevent for ESD. This will damage your unit.
      • October 18, 2009
    • agamemnon2
      LeftyF I am having very similar symptoms with my G-Major. Recently it has been taking longer and longer to boot up, and will hang with some garbage on the screen for several minutes with all the buttons flashing dimly. If I hard boot the device a few times it will eventually boot up. I also found that if I press "Routing" and "Recall" while it's hung it will immediately bring up the utility screen. I tried to sort it out by re-setting the software and clearing the patches, then upgrading the software again (which took 8 or 9 tries with various errors before it finally succeeded) and restoring my patches and settings, but the issue still exists. I also found that once the unit has booted successfully it will come up fine until it has been left off for several hours, leading me to believe that once the capacitors hold a charge the issue does not exist. I am good with a soldering iron and can find one end of a capacitor from another. Can you please verify the specifics of the capacitors? As I can work around the issue for now I would like to avoid opening the unit again until I have the parts. For reference I am in the US, so mine is a 120V PSU. I would also assume it's a good idea to leave the unit off and unplugged for a day or two to allow the capacitors to discharge, or is there another better way to accomplish this?



      Thanks in advance for any info
      • December 15, 2009
    • agamemnon2
      agamemnon2 It does look very likely you have the same problem. I didn't record the specific values of the ones I replaced, but all were covered by a generic bag of ecaps I bought fairly cheaply from a local UK electronics supplier (maplins), so you could perhaps do the same. Also, there seems to be different versions of the PSU around, so the values could differ on your board.
      • January 8, 2010
  • zeejayzee
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-09-30
    I have a new Mesa Roadster, and just bought a G System. I haven't played for a long time, hoping someone can suggest the best way of inserting the G System in so as not to lose tone or volume.

    The store sold me a pair of decent 1/4" 20' cables, should I just run the send & return? I hear a lot of people have had tone loss issues when connecting the unit improperly, so I want to make sure I do this right...
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    • zeejayzee
      elvis The G System is not plug & play. It will take some work to get it sounding right. Your best bet is Laird Williams's setup guide:



      http://www.guitaraffair.com/g-system-support.php
      • September 30, 2009
    • zeejayzee
      elfredoo got a roadster, too.



      you can eperiment with this first:

      http://forum.tcelectronic.com/viewtopic.php?id=1913



      first try to keep the boost on the g on. if you still think there is a tone loss you can try avoiding the first dsp-section (losing comp, filter and loops): plug guitar to amp and use amp-loop-send to g-insert-return, g-left-out to amp-loop-return.

      you can later use the boost on the roadster...



      you have to play with the send level of the roadster as well. the level meter on the g shows 1st (guitar-input) and 2nd (insert-return) dsp levels. so it could be that you overload (red led) the g by having a too high amp-send-level although your guitar input is well leveled.
      • September 30, 2009
    • zeejayzee
      gwinger I found a lot of threads in the internet, which show that the most people have issues

      to get good results in combination of a G-System and a Mesa Roadster.

      I followed the Laird Williams white paper exactly to resolve those issues, but with a

      lot of tone loss at the end. There are problems with line levels and in result we

      loose a lot of the famous natural dry sound of the Boogie, or we have noisy clipping (G-System) and problems

      with the range of the Master Volumes.



      If I tell you, that it is possible to get everything to work perfect, with a stunning result in sound,

      attack and 100% of the Boogie Sound behavior, not that much of you will believe this, ok?



      Please test it with the Morley Effects Loop Corrector: http://www.morleypedals.com/delc.html

      Use the 4 cable method therefore, to connect the G-System.



      I tell you how it goes:



      First on the backside of the Roadster you should turn the FX Loop knob and give the full 100%

      range into the FX LOOP SEND !!! Don't connect the G-System - use only the amp and your guitar.

      You will recognize that your Amp becomes louder if you turn the knob into the + direction.

      Turn it to maximum.

      Now you have to fine-tune the Master Volumes of

      each of the four channels so that you have your perfect volume setting for your 4 Channels.

      Trim your basic sounds also to your needs.



      Next step connect everything like this:



      "Roadster" (FX Send) to (Channel 1 "1+") of the "Morley Effects Loop Corrector" with short TS cable.

      "Morley Effects Loop Corrector" (Channel 1 "2-") to (Insert Return) of the "G-System" with long TRS cable.



      "G-System" (Insert Send) to (Channel 2 "4-") oft the" Morley Effects Loop Corrector" with long TRS cable.

      "Morley Effects Loop Corrector" (Channel 2 "3+") to "Roadster" (Input Jack on the front panel) with short TS cable.



      Now you should use an EBTECH Hum Eleminator to connect the Output jacks of the G-System.

      Maybe you have bought it at all if you followed the very helpful instructions in the Withe Paper of Liard Wiliams.



      Okay, connect now for mono:

      "G-System" (Output Left) to (Cannel 1 "IN") of the "EBTECH Hum Eleminator" with long TRS cable.

      "EBTECH Hum Eleminator" (Channel 1 "OUT") to "Roadster" (FX Return) with short TS cable.

      For stereo:

      "G-System" (Output Right) to (Cannel 2 "IN") of the "EBTECH Hum Eleminator" with long TRS cable.

      "EBTECH Hum Eleminator" (Channel 2 "OUT") to "Your second AMP" (FX Return) with a very good TS cable and maybe something like a line driver, depending on the cable distance to the second Amplifier.



      I use a mono setup so I can fix both, the Morley Effects Loop Corrector an the EBTECH Hum Eleminator onto the top of my Roadster.



      At least connect a "LEHLE Sunday driver" or another good Linedriver between your guitar cable and the

      "G-System" (Input Jack). The Wheel on 4 o' clock pm. Later you can trim this like you want.



      I give you now my Global Settings for the G-System:

      Global Routing: Serial

      Guitar Input Select: Rear

      Guitar Input Sensitivity: 0

      Loop Level: 8 dB

      Loop headroom: 0 dB

      Volume: 0

      Volume Placement: Output

      Output Level: 0

      Boost Max: 0 (I use the Solo Output of the Roadster with a Footswitch)

      Kill Dry: off



      What I experienced is the best sound on earth.

      !00% no noise, clipping and hum and full range for trimming the Master Channel Volumes on each channel of

      the Roadster.

      No differences between "All Bypass" and full wet sound. The same attack and brilliance like you play the pure Roadster with direct plugged guitar.

      The tone seems to become 3 dimensional and you can not find any loss of quality.



      I have some very old vintage guitars tested. They produce hum and noise at all, because of the old electrics and single coils etc. pp.

      Therefore I first used the G-System noise gate, which cleared the issue without any problem.

      But you can clean the signal very good with a "Electro Harmonics Hum Debugger" between the guitar and the LEHLE sunday driver. Also without any lost of tone quality. It seems to me, that the noisecleaner signal at the beginning of the signal chain gives the tone a plus on quality. You recognize it, if you listen the echoes. They become more natural I think.



      The next thing are old pedals. I offer to you, to think about using a galvanic independent power supply for the pedals instead of the 4 internal 9V connections of the G-System. But I haven't proofed it at all.

      When you have issues with high leveled distortion pedals, this could become a solution I think.



      Hope your results are the same like my, after an Odyssee of hating and loving the G-System Which I had.



      regards and Thanx to Nils from Just Music (Amptown) Hamburg Germany for all the help

      Also thanx to Liard Williams
      • September 7, 2013
  • BenGodard
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-09-26
    I have a rackmount Lexicon MPX1 stereo effects processor and as far as I know it's a line level unit but it does have a level knob on it to adjust the gain. However, the TC 2290 I just got looks like it is only for instument level. My question is does the TC 2290 only allow an instrument level effects units to be run through the effects send/return loop? If that is the case then that is very unfortunate because most high quality rack mount effects are line level.

    I would like to hear from those who have owned a TC 2290
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    • BenGodard
      Laird_Williams

      BenGodard wrote:

      I have a rackmount Lexicon MPX1 stereo effects processor and as far as I know it's a line level unit but it does have a level knob on it to adjust the gain. However, the TC 2290 I just got looks like it is only for instument level. My question is does the TC 2290 only allow an instrument level effects units to be run through the effects send/return loop? If that is the case then that is very unfortunate because most high quality rack mount effects are line level.



      I would like to hear from those who have owned a TC 2290


      Why are you posting this to the G-System user forum? A G-System is not a 2290.
      • September 26, 2009
    • BenGodard
      BenGodard I thought current users of the G-system might have previously used the TC 2290 and might be so kind to offer help. Guess I was wrong. Sorry to break the chain of thought on the G-series. I wouldn't have bothered if they had a forum on the TC2290 delay.
      • September 27, 2009
    • BenGodard
      Laird_Williams

      BenGodard wrote:

      I thought current users of the G-system might have previously used the TC 2290 and might be so kind to offer help. Guess I was wrong. Sorry to break the chain of thought on the G-series. I wouldn't have bothered if they had a forum on the TC2290 delay.


      There might be a few. I think TC should set up a "legacy products" thread for you guys. There are still a lot of users of the 2290 and some of their other gear out there - and you don't appear to have a "home" right now.
      • September 27, 2009
    • BenGodard
      FrankSteffenMül Hi,

      i use this old thread for my TC2290.



      The question about the TC2290:



      When I turn the delay off (bypass), the stereo return (loop 5) doesnt`t work anymore - it`s mono.

      Is that normal?



      all the best

      Frank
      • May 18, 2010
  • jamie_dan_r
    Contributor - Level 1
    2009-09-21
    Hello.

    we use TC 6000 units chased via timecode. this, up till now has been fine for us. We are finding more and more we need to conform the patch automation.

    we have now set up midi to give us control through protools for when we conform the patch changes.

    What I cant find is a Midi patch name file for the TC6000 unit. does one exist? If so i would really appreciate a link to it.

    Thanks.

    jamie.
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    • jamie_dan_r
      maggot a heads-up for you and any others with this issue (everyone I guess)



      I have added support for re-conforming of the TC6000 snapshot automation to my "conformalizer" application.

      the feature is in a BETA state but has been used successfully on a couple of big feature mixes.



      contact me for details if you want to give this a try - there are a couple of gotchas in the current implementation but it is still very useable.



      apologies to the board admins if this reads like advertising.

      justin webster
      • September 30, 2009
  • leperclown
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-08
    Hi all,

    I have just got an FC300 and unfortunately, you can't name presets on the unit display in 'standard' mode (very dumb!), however you can name pre-sets in 'Patch Mode'.

    I was wondering if anyone has used patch mode with the GM. I would like to access my GM2 presets by sending program change messages, but I would also like to be able to kick in different effects within a patch (e.g. wah) and use the foot pedals to control the wah, whammy, volume etc).

    As usual, the manual is short on detail.

    Any help (even just a confirmation that what I want to do is possible) would be much appreciated.

    Cheers

    Paul
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    0 14,552
    • leperclown
      martynjeffries I've only had my G-Major and FC300 for 3 days so I'm learning (fast) what's possible. It sounds logical what you are requesting. Did you make progress since August?
      • January 20, 2010
    • leperclown
      leperclown G'day Martynjeffries,



      I'm happy to report that I have had success using the Roland FC300. However, I have to use the unit in "Patch Mode" rather than "Standard" mode.



      I am able to access any patch on the GM2 and any switching combination on the JVM410, together, via midi. Features that I have set up include:



      - Exp Pedal 1: wah or other controllable parameter depending on patch

      - Exp Pedal Switch 1: wah on/off

      - Exp Pedal 2: Volume (toe down 100%, heel down 70%)

      - Exp Pedal Switch 2: Volume mute on/off (for silent tuning)

      - Patch & bank selection using Mode and numbered switches

      - CTL1 & 2 toggle effects on/off within each patch

      - Display: Each patch named, with JVM channel/mode detail (great for knowing where you are without having to look at the amp or GM2 display!)



      Using "Patch" mode requires a little bit of "programming". In this regard, I found the manual sufficient, but not really helpful. A bit of trial and error is involved, but the results are worth it.



      The only problem I have encountered so far, is that in using the CTL switches to toggle effect on/off, the lights on the CTL pedals do not necessarily idicate whether the effect is actually on or off - easy to get used to though.



      The other benefit of "Patch" mode on the FC300, is that you can transmit midi in several channels. I have bought a TCE Nova Drive (great unit) and I intend to run it, via a midi splitter, in front of the JVM, but controlled by a different midi channel to the GM2 and JVM.



      Best of luck!
      • January 22, 2010
    • leperclown
      martynjeffries Thanks for the info. I didn't realize there was a switch under the expression pedals - I wondered how the on-off light was supposed to work.



      I have not gotten as far as Patch mode but have set-up the following;



      Standard Mode



      Banks and Patch selects are normal in LINEAR mode so numbers match the DISPLAY.



      I changed the "SYS: PC Mode" to SOUND MODULE. This allows me to select MSB 0 for Factory presets or MSB 1 for User presets.



      CTL 1 = TAP TEMPO



      CTL 2 = BYPASS



      EXP 1 = EFFECT Control



      EXP 2 = VOLUME



      then in CONTROL (CC) mode.



      Mapping pedals 1-5 CCs to effect blocks ON/OFF for FILTER, COMP, MOD, DELAY & REVERB.



      This allows me to create a sound within a PATCH of certain block combinations without having to change to whole patch - essentially like a stomp box mode within each Preset.



      Following your info - I'm now going to set-up the EXP 2 Switch for Tuner MUTE.
      • January 22, 2010
    • leperclown
      Eptesicus79 Hi leperclown,



      I use the FC-300 as a MIDI controller for a different unit, the Digitech 2120. In response to what you said about the lights on the CTL pedals, I have the same issue. For example, I successfully programmed CC#80 (Chorus) to CTL1. I press the switch, & Chorus turns on...OK, great....



      However if I switch to a different patch in Standard Mode, the CTL light stays on. If I switch back to the patch I was using to turn the Chorus on, CTL1 is still lit, but the effect is not turned on. I actually have to hit the switch (light goes off), then hit it again (both the light & effect turn on).



      Has anyone figured out a way around this? Its as if the controller or the unit isnt communicating to its full potential or something.
      • January 27, 2010
    • leperclown
      kalimera Hi

      Can anyone do a step by step guide of how to set up the fc-300 in patch mode to change my presets on the GM2.



      I`m ok in standard mode, but as has been mentioned you can`t name them in std mode.



      I usually set up my patches with the song titles in my set.



      cheers



      Mike
      • March 11, 2010
  • Goonga
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-07
    Hi, just thought I'd share this experience with you folks - there are so many variables with this stuff, in the end you have to use your own ears, but this might steer a few less experienced users in the right direction.

    I am a session muso and bought the Nova to replace a large pedalboard for fly-in gigs (as Australian airlines have started to kill touring muso's with their baggage allowances!). The music I play requires a lot of clean patches, ie. there is no hiding behind a wall of distortion when trying to get a great tone.
    As with any digital converters you have to be really careful about how you set your levels etc. and I discovered this was absolutely critical with the Nova - just a few dB difference when setting up the 'Input Gain' structure can completely change your tone.
    This may not work for everyone, but this is what I found worked the best with my setup (Senn Telecaster into a '68 Deluxe Reverb) and it's not what the manual suggested... (-:
    (I tested this in a studio with an A/B box and an isolated amp in a separate room so that volume etc. didn't cloud my judgement).

    I firstly did what the manual suggested and brought the input level up to unity (playing as loudly as possible) then backed it off a couple. This was definitely not the optimal setting (which was about 20 for my tele). I noticed when playing higher up and digging in, the top end was quite nasty so I backed it off even more - and after going up and down the settings, found the best spot was 14 - nowhere near the unity gain indicated by the Nova. Just a few dB either side of this was a completely different and less usable tone (higher up was nasty, lower was dull and lifeless). So... that part of the setup is crucial to getting the best out of your unit - and I suggest spending a fair bit of time finding the best spot for you and your particular guitar.

    I also noticed (and expected) that there were still some deficiencies in the tone when A/B'd with the straight-in guitar (due to the A/D conversion in and out of the unit) - although have to say it was better than expected. By putting a Keeley compressor before the unit and using a very low compression setting and just boosting (the Keeley also 'fattens' it a bit) the guitar signal ever so slightly it brought the 'through the unit' tone much closer to the direct guitar (of course if you're going to do this you have to recheck your input level settings).

    My last improvement involves the boost option. I disabled it! (if you want to do this, do it before any of the other stuff). I love the idea of having a boost (can't live without one) but with the TC units (I used to own a G-System as well) all you're doing is lowering the original signal before it gets to the boost and then just bringing the signal back up to it's original level when you hit the boost. It is a subtle effect on your tone (by having it lowered a few dB) but it all adds up and this is definitely not the way to boost your signal (IMHO). It would have been fantastic for TC to have a separate Analog circuit for the boost after everything else in the unit. But, considering how cheap these things are - that might be expecting a bit much.

    Hope this all doesn't sound too negative - I think for the money, this is the best unit on the market for this niche - and I have tried them all!!!!

    If anyone from TC is listening... is there a way for the boost button (now irrelevant on my unit) to be switched to an EQ on/off button?

    Love your work.

    Goonga
    read more...
    0 45,917
    • Goonga
      divil Great advice there Goonga...it's a shame also that the input level is not saved with the bank/patch....having 3 guitars with 3 different output level means trying to find a 'ball park' setting is not the best!



      Divil
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Goonga Hey Divil,



      Yep, it's a critical part of the equation and with varying guitars it's an issue...
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Jawa This a great overview. Thank you. Input setting per preset seems like it should be part of the next update!
      • September 7, 2009
    • Goonga
      Chris78 Hi Goonga,



      thanks for sharing you experience with us! I'd like to know something regarding your explanation of the boost function. I guess you're right - when solely looking into the digital domain, the boost can't push the signal higher than 0dB, which means the unboosted signal has to be levelled somewhere below that. But do you really think that the internal leveling of the signal some dB below the max produces a loss of tone? The Nova has a resolution of 24Bits, which is a lot of headroom. Is it possible that you just forgot to adjust the overall output level of the Nova, so that you're now getting a clean tone into your amp that is quieter than when going directly into it? This would surely give loss of tone, especially with a tube amp that expects a proper input level.



      I set the Nova up this way: After bringing up the input level to unity gain, i compared the Nova output volume with the bypassed volume. Hearing that the Nova was some dB below my bypass signal i adjusted the output amplifier of the Nova, which is accessible via the levels menu (advanced mode, i guess) to +14 dB, thus bringing both signals to equal volume. When i now hit the boost, it is definitely a boost, the Nova makes the signal louder, pushes the amp harder, etc. while my unboosted signal is as loud as if going directly into the amp.



      Best, Chris
      • September 8, 2009
    • Goonga
      Goonga Hey Chris78,



      I'm hoping you're right - will test it out. I haven't done a thorough test (for the boost) with the Nova - I did, however, do it with the G-System a couple of years ago and there was definitely tone loss unless the boost function was removed so just assumed they were using the same thing in the Nova.



      Will test it out in the studio this week and let you know what the ears think... if you're right it would mean not needing to take a boost pedal to gigs - which, of course, would make my day. However, I have my suspicions - I know it's 24bit, but noticed that even a couple of dB either side of the optimal input setting was enough to change the tone quite dramatically (to my ears).



      Thanks,



      Goonga
      • September 9, 2009
  • Headhunter
    Contributor - Level 2
    2009-09-01
    I bought the RH450 a few months back. At the time, I also bought the 2x10 and 2x12 cabinets. Well, long story short, the cabs didn't do it for me. Just not the sound I was looking for, nothing wrong with them, just not me.
    I replaced both cabs with a Berg AE410, which I really like the sound of, however, I find that the 4x10 configuration lacks some of the bottom end my old amp, with the 15 inch woofer supplied.
    Here's my first question... can I run the RH450, with the Berg AE410 and an 8ohm 15 inch cabinet, without causing the head problems. Also, am I asking for trouble running an 8ohm cab in combination with a 4ohm cab?
    (If this is a stupid question, just ell me, I'm a big boy! LOL)
    Also, I've noticed with the foot pedal that when I turn the amp on, no pre-sets are turned on. The amp settings are static from the last time it was turned on. (I actually haven't really set up the pre-sets yet... I'm still having fun playing with the amps versatility) I have bungled one pre-set to a reasonable sound, but don't know how to get the amp to go back to the original settings, short of turning it off, than on again. Anyone know how I get back to the original settings?
    Thanks
    Headhunter

    PS... really glad I found this forum!
    read more...
    0 6,528
    • Headhunter
      rune Hi,

      8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms (ok)

      8 ohms + 4 ohms = 2.67 ohms (not ok)

      Since the RH450 handles a minimum load of 4 ohms, you should stick to 2 x 8 ohm cabinets.



      I am not entirely sure what you mean regarding the presets. If you have not saved any presets, and are not recalling any presets then the amp will simply be as it were when you turned it off. If you need to do a complete reset of all settings in the amp, hold down the 3 preset buttons on the front panel while powering on the RH450.
      • September 1, 2009
    • Headhunter
      Headhunter WEll, for not understanding my question entirely, you actually answered my question... thank you!

      Regarding the impedance question, I am having something of a difficult time understanding how an amp the can run three 8 ohm cabs, is not capable of running the a 4ohm and an 8ohm cabinet. If I understand correctly, you are being very conservative with regard to this question as I am sure it's one that comes up frequently. I assume many folks have inquired regarding different cabinet configurations and as a result, you folks are being careful not to provide advice that could damage my Rebel Head.

      Thanks for you consideration

      HH
      • September 1, 2009
    • Headhunter
      rune I wrote an FAQ on that specific subject:

      ------------------

      Conventional wisdom would tell you, that since the cabinets are 8 ohm and the amp is rated at 4 ohm you would only be able to connect 2 cabinets. However, a speakers impedance varies depending on the specific frequency. A speaker might be 4 ohms in the lower range but could at the same time be 8 ohms above 10Khz. So a speakers rated impedance is an avarage across the spectrum. Since the speakers in the RS cabinets are custom made we know the exact Ohm rating of the them, and have therefore been able to design the amp so that it can drive 3 of the RS cabinets.

      ------------------

      In addition, a slightly lower impedance will most likely not damage the amp as such, but will probably shorten its lifespan.
      • September 2, 2009
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