Hi TC User Support,
normally I use an EQ only to solve acoustic problems in a room.
I own a chart that shows the frequencies of the single notes on the bass fretboard, so I can identify a frequency that causes acoustic problems very easily.
Now I would like to know what frequencies the single "dots" of the 4 EQ bands represent? Is it linear so I could divide the range between the center frequency and the lowest/highest frequency by the number of LEDs or is it somehow different?
If there is a table showing the frequencies this would be very helpful because then I could influence problematic frequencies in a room very quickly.
Thank you in advance and best regards
Peter

I recently bought a G Major 2 rack, it has great effects and is fairly easy easy to use...But I think Ive wasted money buying it because,

1. I cant find any positive information on what midi pedal boards to buy. And the ones that sound remotely compatible are almost half the price of the GMajor rack itself.

2. I was better off buying the G-System as it already has a pedal board and rack built into 1 unit.

So after paying $700(AU) for the rack , I now have to shell out more cash for a pedal board and rack case, both of these are not cheap at all. A 2 unit rack $150 and half decent midi board $300 minimum= Total=$1150(AU)

Oh well its my fault for not doing more research.

Soo... anyone interested in a Gmajor2 rack, HA!

It is indeed working, but no mixer yet. But I rebooted to windows, and tweaked some mixerpresets there, and it works well.
I also assigned the assignable controller to the volume, and is listening hopefully with less analog components on out 3-4. A onebit stream, which outputs to 24bits sounds the same, at various levels, it's just the noisefloor you have to consider, which is probably better than the analog components anyway. Overall a nice product, Tc might skip the analog volume, for my part.

Peace Be With You.

PS: If you miss the limiter, check this one out: https://sourceforge.net/projects/pxu/

I recently purchased in Toronto 2 rs112 speaker cabinets and a classic 450 amp.
This combination gives me the sound, portability and flexibility that I was after.

My one concern is - why is the handle installed such that the cabinet nose dives
when carried.
It seems that if the handle was reversed that cab would balance better.

In the video on the TC web site the handle appears to be reversed such that the
cab would balance when being carried. Also I do not have the 1/4" inputs mentioned
in the video. So the cab has changed but why change the handle?

Right to the source of what's happening for those who loose internal sync when connected to a computer using your Firewire cable. This insidiously irritating flaw starts with 1 second long drop outs as early as 5 minutes after first powering up the device, (sometimes takes an hour or so to develop at other times) and continues in ever increasing frequency until the 24D totally mutes. No solution I have found except to turn the unit off and let it sit and then power it up again.

Sound familiar? The problem is HEAT... specifically an overheated 'Wavefront' chip.

This is how I arrived at this conclusion.

First of all I've let this unit run for 24 hours straight, (twice) in stand alone mode powered by the AC adapter, signal in from a SPDIF cord and listened to music from the audio outputs on channels 3&4 with zero drop outs, not even one that I’m aware of.

With the unit warm after 24 hours running I connect the firewire cord and a laptop or desktop and sync is immediately lost and unrecoverable showing "No Reference" from the TC Near Control Panel, (yes, SPDIF cord disconnected).

Unplug the firewire cord and reconnect the SPDIF cord in stand alone mode and sync is back in seconds and sound now appears at the outputs and will continue to do so for another 24 hours, (as I found out).

I have played with my 24D reading up here and there on the net for possible solutions trying different computers, cables etc., everything always results in the same outcome, loss of internal sync with a firewire cable connected to a computer after a short period of time with total muting the final outcome, always.

Tonight I took the 24D apart and then powered it up with the firewire cable connected to my computer and listened to music until it started to drop out. I then gently used “Dust Off� , (compressed gas in a can) to cool the Wavefront chip and the drop outs immediately stopped.

I let the chip reheat to the point of almost loosing sync totally, turned the unit over and again gently blew canned air on this chip again. Internal lock comes back immediately with no loss of sync as long as I keep this chip cool. The amount of heat developed is minimal, I am able to place my thumb on this chip and my thumb will drain away the heat being developed within the chip to the extend that the 30 minutes or so I kept my thumb on this chip, no drop outs occurred.

I’m going to buy a heat sink and attach it to this Wavefront chip, I expect this irritating problem that has dogged this great unit will be a thing of the past.

Note:
When the Aluminum body is removed there is another stamped steel cover that seals in the unit from the bottom as well. To keep the heat that is generated in when I’m testing various components to see how warm they get I turned the unit right side up and set it down on carpet to keep this minimal heat in. Upside down with the internals exposed the unit seems fine for the 20 minutes or so of my patience with no drop outs occurring, turning the unit over right side up and about 5 minutes later drop outs start.

I just thought I would introduce my self Big Andy I live in England and play both bass guitar EUB and acoustic SB I have just purchaced a RH 450 head, footswitch, RS112 and RS212. I play a variety of styles jazz, big band function stuff and classical and pit work . Ive been looking for a new set up to use when I have to double and finnally after a lot of research took the plunge and splashed out.

first gig using RH450 and 112 was last night jazz combo with female vocals wow!!
what sound this head makes with this speaker. I used my EUB yamaha silent bass it produced a full warm sound by adding a little tubetone but very clear and sustained and punchy and I had great comments from the other guys. I used trace elliot before but prefer the RH450 due to its sound and a lot less weight when carrying it around. The 112 speaker is amazing for the size with no distorting at all and this wasnt a quiet cocktail gig. I would appreciate comments from UB or acoustic players particularly sound settings. I also set up a louder setting for solos changed by the footswitch which worked well.

One gripe where is the case for the 112 cab I need one it was raining when I finished and I had to put plastic bag around the cab not good for advertising TC Electronic!!

A top class proffessional rig well done

Big Andy

So finally updated my G to the latest firmware without a hitch.
So whated to free up one of my loops by replacing my Voodoo lab
minivibe so went straight to the univibe section.
Can I get that classic Trower/Hendrix sound out of it? No

So anybody got any settings they could share.

They really should have done a classic univibe with only two or three settings. Depth and speed.